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Capillary Attraction
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.6 from 11 votes
Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Jim Scott, & Dean Brault (2001) |
Page Views: | 1,125 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Hendrixson on Jul 29, 2013 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
This area is historically used by nesting falcons, hawks, owls or other raptors. Breeding season varies but is roughly February through July. Nesting raptors are protected by law.
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Description
A perplexing and engaging line that left me utterly destroyed but eager for a rematch. While the ratings suggest otherwise I personally found this line to be harder than Block Party.
Stem past the first bolt before fully committing to the face. Levitate over miniscule crimps and nonexistent feet to a left arching detached lip. Follow the weakness left, pulling the lip, to gain access to a series of jugs followed by a rest. After recovering overcome a baffling section of slopers and edges to reach a rail with two flakes. Make one final move to reach larger features on Fortress-like rock. Follow spaced out bolts to the chains.
Stem past the first bolt before fully committing to the face. Levitate over miniscule crimps and nonexistent feet to a left arching detached lip. Follow the weakness left, pulling the lip, to gain access to a series of jugs followed by a rest. After recovering overcome a baffling section of slopers and edges to reach a rail with two flakes. Make one final move to reach larger features on Fortress-like rock. Follow spaced out bolts to the chains.
Location
Capillary Attraction is located in the chimney between Raven B and Raven C. It starts from a small boulder at the highest point. This is just right of the two chockstones which make up the first moves on Block Party. The first three bolts are shared with Right Ventricle. Capillary Attraction is the left branch.
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