Small crag with about 20 routes and around 75' tall. Most of the routes are tope roped due to poor limestone rock quality. Very easy access for anyone, so beware of non-climbers at the top of the cliffs.
There are a few bolts on top of the cliff but expect to build natural anchors off the trees up top.
From the University of Missouri - Columbia: Head south on S College Avenue crossing through the intersection with E Stadium Rd. College Avenue becomes S Rock Quarry Rd. Drive past the quarry and Capen Park is down a very short dirt road on your left.
1 minute approach from parking. Walk down to the creek to look up at the routes or just head to the top and drop your ropes if you know what you want to set up.
Start by liebacking a thin crack or by climbing the slab to its right. Climb over a series of bulges until you gain a ledge below overhanging blocks and ledges. Choose the line of least resistance. It is possible to go straight up or to move 8 left or right before continuing. The left-hand variation is the easiest....[more]Browse More Classics in MO
there are actually 38 posted routes at this park. i'll do my best to add them to mountain project. there is a sport crag located near the main cliff that has 10 sport routes on it ranging from 5.5 to 5.11. the main cliff has 28 routes and all of these can be found at