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Cape Spencer

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Cape Spencer  


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Administrators: Dom, Ian Lingley, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ian Lingley on May 17, 2011
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Description 

This is a coastal area, with a few boulders and small cliffs. The rock is hard like granite with lots of features. The boulders appear to be pretty good quality with few loose holds. The landings to some of the problems aren’t flat, it would be recommended to bring 2-3 pads. The Amount of quality rock is limited because it changes to choss at the ends of this area.
This area has been climbed off and on since the 70’s and possibly before this. Allot of the “New” problems were probably climbed by another generation, if anyone has information of other problems, correct Route/Boulder Names or FA information let me know and ill update it. (IanLingley@hotmail.ca)

Getting There 

This area is located at the end of the Redhead Road in Saint John. Drive the Redhead road to the lighthouse at cape Spencer, walk by the sign that says loose cliffs. An obvious trail will lead you down toward the shore. Its about a 20min drive from the highway in Saint John and 4min approach from the parking spot.

Climbing Season



Weather station 21.4 miles from here

22 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',10],['V2-3',12],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Cape Spencer
Real Acandian Time

Real Acadian Time V-easy 3  North America : Canada : ... : Cape Spencer
On the Right side of the bus boulder. Sit start in the dip where roof ends. Vertical face with good holds up through the corner, taller top out but with nice holds....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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By Chris Norfolk
From: Fredericton, New Brunswick
May 24, 2011
Is this the same as the area which has been for years known simply as 'Cape Spencer'? The directions and description are a perfect match. You might consider asking around for the names of the problems, they've possibly been climbed many times in the past. Local, Cory G. would be the authority and he'd be happy to help.

You'd be able to contact him here :
By Ian Lingley
Administrator
May 25, 2011
Yep, this is Cape Spencer. I knew people have climbed here before, and assumed it was mostly roped climbing because “no one” boulders in NB, at least SJ.
I’ve never seen the post on CEC, but would like to find out as much as I can about the area. Names, Grades, FA?
By Chris Norfolk
From: Fredericton, New Brunswick
May 25, 2011
Hi Ian.

Cape Spencer has certainly been bouldered by many people in the past, myself included. I'm not certain that a guide was produced but a quick search and post on the CEC forum will net you some answers. As I said, some of the experienced SJ folks (Cory G., Tom A., Steve A) will probably chime in.

Just thought you ought to know since claiming FA's and renaming existing problems can sometimes get you into trouble.

Also FYI... I've proposed using this site to create an online guide for N.B. and it did not receive a warm reception from many of the locals in your area. YMMV.
By Ian Lingley
Administrator
May 25, 2011
Hey Chris

I know that these rocks have been climbed before if you read the description of the area it states to email me any information you know about the area so I could update it. I talked to Steve and Tom; they said they climbed there and Cory G would likely know more.

And Yes I am also aware that people that live and climb in New Brunswick don’t want anyone else in the world to know there is climbing here. It is completely understandable because C-lane is always crowded and all the classics are starting to become polished.
By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Jun 3, 2011
I'm pretty sure Cory Goodman has a topo of the area.

Also, Chris I think people on CEC were against posting areas with fragile access (CL, Sunnyside, etc.). I'm sure nobody cares if you post Cape Spencer. Cedar point would also benefit beeing posted on here IMO.

Good work on the pictures and tentative topo Ian.