Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cape Ann

Select Area...
128 Boulder, The 
Above Oz Boulders 
Agassiz Rock 
Alley Slab, The 
Approach Boulder, The 
Arrowhead Cliff 
Beaver Boulders 
Bray St. Mini-Crag 
Cape Ann Ice and Mixed Climbing 
Cavalry Boulder Field aka Gymnasium aka Playground 
Dogtown 
Dorset St. Crag (Langsford Pond in Boston Rocks) 
Down Under 
Down Under Over 
Drive-By Boulder 
Dyke's Pond (Gloucester) 
Fire Tower 
Half Dome Slab 
Homeless Boulder 
Kong Boulder 
Lost Wall 
Magnolia Avenue 
Master's Wall 
Mop Gripping Quarry 
Mount Jacob Boulders  
Mt. Ann 
Oz 
Oz Talus Boulders 
Pet Slabs, The 
Pink Floyd Wall 
Pipeline Boulders 
Pipeline Buttress 
Plateau Boulder 
Quarry Slabs  
Rafe's Chasm 
Ravenswood Boulder - Gloucester, MA 
Redrocks North 
Salt Marsh Boulder 
Skull Island Boulders 
Stage Fort Park 
Stavros Reservation Buildering, Essex 
Sunshine Wall 
Thomas St. Reservation 
Unknown Crag near Gloucester, Massachusetts  

Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Chipmunk
Tough riding over lots of rocks. Near Manchester, NH
Hemlock
Smooth fast flowy singletrack. Near Manchester, NH
Hall Mountain Singletrack
A short climb to a vista and then nicely flowing singletrack that passes along a pond. Near Manchester, NH
Lynx Trail
Connects the campground to the southeastern area of the park. Near Manchester, NH
Russel Mill - GBF Linkup
A big linkup of Great Brook Farm and Russel Mill. Near Carlisle, MA
Orange Goose Loop
Exceptional flow and lots of features. Near Lowell, MA
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Cape Ann 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 42.6188, -70.6668 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 106,930
Administrators: Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Bjorn on Dec 27, 2008
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area Add Area | Add Photo | Add Comment | Add Event
Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri
Partly Cloudy
56° | 43°
Mostly Cloudy
55° | 45°
Chance of Rain
52° | 39°
Clear
56° | 40°
Clear
53° | 43°
BETA PHOTO: "Flying Monkey." 5.6. Weird, wet, and mossy chim...

Description 

Cape Ann is the bulge of land north of Boston on which Gloucester is the largest city and one of the oldest functioning seaports in the New World. This area is studded throughout with a wealth of granite, mainly boulders and short cliffs. Tucked away in the woods of Gloucester, Essex, Manchester-by-the-Sea, Marblehead, Peabody, Lynn, and other towns are few-and-far-between bouldering destinations and cliff bands with high quality routes on exquisite, bulletproof New England granite.

In this subarea, we will only have Cape Ann crags.


Getting There 

Drive north from Boston on I-93 to the junction of I-95 and Route 128. Peabody bouldering exists right at this junction of highways. All destinations in Gloucester and other neighboring towns straddle Route 128 after its divergence from I-95 as it heads toward Gloucester.


Special Note 

To avoid difficulty in finding perhaps the best known of the Cape Ann crags, Redrock, this particular crag has been left out separately under the general Massachusetts page, since some climbers, even locals, do not necessarily think first to look under Cape Ann when looking for Redrock.


546 Total Routes


['4 Stars',32],['3 Stars',134],['2 Stars',326],['1 Star',53],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',24],['5.7',11],['5.8',14],['5.9',10],['5.10',15],['5.11',7],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',28],['V2-3',124],['V4-5',195],['V6-7',115],['V8-9',7],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cape Ann:
The Right Arete   V0+ 4+     Boulder, 12'   Agassiz Rock : Little Agassiz
Unknown   V1 5     Boulder, 10'   Cavalry Boulder Field aka G... : The Valley
Unknown 3   V2 5+     Boulder, 10'   Cavalry Boulder Field aka G... : The Valley
Doug's Nose   V2+ 5+     Boulder, 10'   Down Under
Another Unnamed Face Problem   V2+ 5+     Boulder, 12'   Agassiz Rock : Little Agassiz
Glorious    V3 6A     Boulder, 8'   Cavalry Boulder Field aka G... : The Alcove
Unnamed Face Problem   V3-4 6A+     Boulder, 12'   Agassiz Rock : Little Agassiz
Alcove Direct    V3-4 6A+     Boulder   Cavalry Boulder Field aka G... : The Alcove
Unknown   V4 6B     Boulder   Dyke's Pond (Gloucester) : The Garden
Whacky   V4 6B     Boulder, 10'   Cavalry Boulder Field aka G... : The Alcove
Fishnet Arete   V4 6B     Boulder, 10'   Cavalry Boulder Field aka G... : The Fishnet Boulders
Unnamed    V5 6C     Boulder   Cavalry Boulder Field aka G... : Cavalry Boulder
Tin Man   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'   Oz
Splitter   5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Down Under
Crimps   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Dorset St. Crag (Langsford ... : Main Wall
Seams Thin   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   Dorset St. Crag (Langsford ... : Main Wall
Unnamed Bolted Face    5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Pink Floyd Wall
Kimchi   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 15'   Sunshine Wall
Dangles Crack   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 20'   Sunshine Wall
Doug's Roof   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c V2 5+     Boulder, 10'   Down Under
Browse More Classics in Cape Ann

Featured Route For Cape Ann
The other main boulder at the top of the Little Agassiz area. The V2 Face Problem starts on the jug on the lower left and follows the chalk to a slopey top out. The Right Arete is easier then it looks in this photo.

Another Unnamed Face Problem V2+ 5+  MA : Cape Ann : ... : Little Agassiz
Start low on a large jug and move up the right-facing edges/flakes until gaining a slopey pinch and topping out. The crux is moving off of the pinch. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in MA

Photos of Cape Ann Slideshow Add Photo
Redrocks Conservation Area... much more than just Main Wall and Pink Floyd Wall.
BETA PHOTO: Redrocks Conservation Area... much more than just ...
Left.
BETA PHOTO: Left.
The Egg Boulder.
The Egg Boulder.
Middle boulder.
BETA PHOTO: Middle boulder.
"Ruby Slippers."  5.10.  Bolted arete between the prominent crack ("Tinman") and the left side face.  The climb goes up the arete and ignores the easy features to the left.  TR anchors on the top.
BETA PHOTO: "Ruby Slippers." 5.10. Bolted arete between the ...
Right.
Right.
Down Under: Main wall on the left of the gully. To the right is the leftmost section containing the lines Down over/under, Blocks, Doug's Nose, and the classic Doug's Roof.
BETA PHOTO: Down Under: Main wall on the left of the gully. To...
"Tinman."  5.8.  The most prominent crack at Oz.  To the left of the weird chimney ("Flying Monkey").  The base of the crack likes to seep, but you can easily get to the crack proper without getting your feet wet.  Fun but short with a little flaring crux.  TR bolts at the top, but it is perfectly protectable.
BETA PHOTO: "Tinman." 5.8. The most prominent crack at Oz. ...
Unknown "sea cave" found along the "Essex County coastline" (from internet).
Unknown "sea cave" found along the "Essex County c...
Comments on Cape Ann Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 9, 2013
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Jan 4, 2011

The Driven Boulder....

By Derek Sullivan
May 25, 2011

Cape Ann in general has a rich history of climbing. Hard locals who you have never heard of have done the majority of these problems back in the '80s. It is out of respect to these individuals that I (nor should anyone else) claim first ascents or name (aside from just a form of description from one to another) these problems. They are there, they have been there, and they have all been climbed. Enjoy, clean up after yourself and respect. Granite.

By Derek Sullivan
Jun 4, 2011



In this video is Aggasiz and Dyke's Pond and one from Calvary. A couple other "secret" areas.

By Ozzy
Mar 23, 2012

Big pins are single or multiple boulders, small pins are possible or crap....
Big pins are single or multiple boulders, small pins are possible or crap....

By jim.dangle
Mar 27, 2012

Unknown slabby wall in Cavalry Area (east of Red Rock).
Unknown slabby wall in Cavalry Area (east of Red Rock).



Anyone ever climbed this little slabby wall? It's located in the Cavalry Boulder Field area (across from Red Rock). It's visible on the topo as the large rocky outcrop near the Orange path after the Orange and Green Paths separate. It's not huge but has potential for a route or two.

Jim

By Corey Baker
Aug 11, 2012

Chris had me belay him on this slab onsight/clean and scrub/trad... and the start is the crux with 3m of steep slab and no pro till that crack. T.o unknown bugs were killer that day, didn't care to stick around... when will the winter come!?

By Gregory Wagner
Oct 9, 2012

My parents moved to Rockport a few years ago, and I've been in town a couple times. After a bit of exploration, I discovered a few top rope anchors above a slab at the one of the Lanesville Pits. Anybody know anything about these climbs? I'm planning on checking it out when I return this November. The routes are probably 20-30 feet on what looks like pretty low angle slab, as I remember, so nothing to get too excited about.

It also occurs to me that there could be top rope potential for some longer routes on the walls at a few of the quarries. Not to mention soloing on the quarry walls! One of the Lanesville Pits (northeast?) has a wall which is more than 40 feet. I was also told of a third pit with a 75 foot wall, but I wasn't able to find it. It may also be possible to access the walls by traversing above the water from near the bottom, but I didn't look closely.

Also, presumably people have bouldered on some of the numerous boulders in Dogtown Commons, but there isn't any information here.

From previous posts, I'm led to believe that everything climbable on Cape Ann has been climbed. It would be nice to preserve some of the history, which is only possible if it's documented!

I'm not sure where else to look for information; any help is appreciated.

By mnatti
Oct 12, 2012

The top anchors in question were put in by me and get mostly used by project adventure, but there are a number of short, fun lines there for folks climbing 5.5 - 5.8. The best access is parking by the Plum Cove beachball field (resident sticker required) and hiking up the trail. The bouldering in Dogtown is amazing but involves quite a bit of walking, and unless you are very familiar with the trails, it is hard to say where the best blocks are. A Dogtown map is availible (The Gloucester Book Store, on-line? and at the kiosk heading into dogtown off Cherry St.) and a great start for bouldering is Whales Jaw, Peter's Pulpit, and Spiritual Power at the Babson Boulders. PM me if you want a bit more goods.

By John Braun
From: Hendersonville, NC
Dec 28, 2012

How are the climbing conditions this time of year? Sunshine wall seems like an obvious choice, but wondering if there are other good cold weather options....

By Chris McNeil
From: Essex, MA
Jan 3, 2013

Mop Grip Quarry might be good. Most of the quarries in Gloucester should be warm(isher), but right now I think your gonna be fighting the ice that's starting to come in. Bouldering this time of year is generally a safe bet though.

By jim.dangle
May 9, 2013

I was looking for info on some boulders in Peabody when I came across this eccentric site.

the-conglomerate-journals.blogspot.com/2013/03/certainly-dye>>>

Among the many pages of random rock related pictures, there are several interesting ones of large erratics and good-looking outcrops on and around Cape Ann and Essex County in general. Most are historic shots. Many of these are probably known about by some boulderer, but if anyone is bored or motivated (the two are often same thing) and wants to find some new stone to climb dig through these images. You might find something cool.

Jim