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Unsorted Routes:

Cape Ann Fingerbang 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

   
Type:  TR, Boulder, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
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Page Views: 162
Submitted By: jim.dangle on Aug 8, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Cape Ann Fingerbang climbs the area roughly in the...

Description 

This climb is pretty unique at Redrock as it requires precise, technical edging on near vertical rock. It starts with a crimpy boulder problem with poor feet to an ok stance, then it really thins out. The crux here is finding the best holds -- there are many and they are all terrible.

It is also quite painful on the fingers as the rock is really rough and grainy. The first time I did it I blundered through by literally impaling my fingers on crystals and making the moves screaming like spoiled child or a hardcore sport climber. Since then, some of the holds have crumbled off and my pain threshhold has shrunk, so I've been forced to find a slightly more comfortable sequence, which is less painful but very technical and sustained over its short 20 or so feet. I made it clean once after flailing repeatedly on the upper moves. The last time I tried I could barely get off the ground.

The ruthless nature of the holds on this climb does not encourage sustained efforts.


Location 

This climb is between the left arete and the over hanging dagger flake above. Start reaching up for the near vertical flake/rail (the best hold on the route) and head upward, there is a little hole in a hollow sounding flake down left for your foot. I head up, drift right, and then back left when I climbed, but it could probably be done straight up.

You can access the top via an easy scramble on either side. In addition to the tree, there is also a good horizontal for a gear anchor (probably small hand-sized pieces)


Protection 

I climbed this on top rope using the tree at the top, but a braver person might just call it a slightly highball boulder problem. If so, the landing is fairly clean but a bit sloped, so bring a bunch of pads and some spotters. Given the nature of the climb, the falls are sudden, but the final moves are the easiest and the lip has good holds. Be forewarned: this wall has already claimed a knee.



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By jim.dangle
Aug 8, 2013

Not sure if this has been climbed before. If anyone boulders it, let me know and I will give them the first ascent. They deserve it.

Also, the area just right of this beneath the dagger flake looks like it has a really hard route that should be cleaned at some point.

Jim