Maybe they should call this the "reclamation" route since it sat unrepeated for years after the first ascent, which left the route in a less-than-perfect state for repeat parties.
Fortunately Western Slopers Jeff Achey and Lee Sheftel became bored enough to have a go at the thing, Achey removing many of the hanging death daggers that littered the route and Sheftel moving a bolt or two. Now it's a pretty fun climb and isn't all greased-out like everything else at Ruckman.
This is the long route on the overhung, pocketed buttress between In Your Face and Firearms. Boulder up a crozzler crack thing then move right into big pockets. Pumpy climbing leads to a crux roof and a perplexing headwall, after which you step right and clip the anchors on Firearms.
Be careful when pulling your rope lest it end up in the fetid mud pit beneath the route.
|Comments on Cap-gun (aka Dave Bingham Route aka "Return to Sender")
|By john bissell|
Jul 19, 2004
Finally climbed this route. Always wanted to get on it even when the humongous pillar was splattered with a chalky "X," but belayers were scarce whenever that route was mentioned...come to think of it I can remember talking some people out of doing it so I didn't have to endure an Eiger Nordwand belay simulation. Great job by Lee Sheftel and Jeff Achey (?et al) for what must have been an epic cleaning job.
Jul 20, 2004
Is this the one that is between Fire Arms and In Your Face? If so, [yeah], this is a very cool route with a little crux at about 2/3 height. Felt about as hard as Fire Arms, but more fun to climb.
Jul 20, 2004
The route is named "Return to Sender" in Pegg's guide.
|By Jeremy H|
Aug 2, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
This climb has its own anchors, you do not clip the anchors on Firearms.
|By dave bingham|
Feb 26, 2011
I put up this route back in the diem and sadly was not able to remove some scary blocks due to traffic at the base area during the busy time I was there. The X marks scared folks off, even though you did not need to touch them to climb past.
I'm glad Jeff and Lee cleaned up my mess so people can enjoy a cool line with interesting moves. Thanks!
I think my original name was something like "Cap-gun".
Btw, in Idaho we call that 11d (not 12b).