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Canyon Road Cliffs

Select Route:
Dashboard Variation S 
Easy Witch S 
Evil Barbecue S 
Jesus Dashboard aka Dashboard Saint S 
Lunging for Jesus S 
Overhang 
Squidbelly Phlegmfoot S 
Unknown 1 T 
Unknown 2 S 
Unknown 3 S 
Unknown 4 T 
Unknown 5.9 right of Phlegmfoot S 
Unknown Huecoed 5.6 S 

Canyon Road Cliffs  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 1969
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BLUE: Unknown 2, 5.10.
RED: Unknown 3, 5.10.
PUR...

Description 

Bob D'Antonio lists eight routes along the canyon road before arriving at the parking area. It is possible to park quite close to most of these, leaving little or no approach. Most of these routes get good sun, are 30 to 50 feet long and bolt protected. The group ticks in between 5.9 and 5.12. Lunging for Jesus (#8) comes recommended at 5.11b.

Getting There 

This is the cliff band along the right side of the road that heads to the parking. The routes start shortly after descending into the canyon.

Climbing Season


13 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',5],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Canyon Road Cliffs:
Unknown Huecoed 5.6   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Dashboard Variation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Evil Barbecue   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Squidbelly Phlegmfoot   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Browse More Classics in Canyon Road Cliffs

Featured Route For Canyon Road Cliffs
The red route.

Unknown 3 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  CO : San Luis Valley : ... : Canyon Road Cliffs
A fun outing and worth doing if you are in the area. Listed as 5.9 in the guide, this route is at least as hard as the 5.10c on the left of the tombstone feature in the first group of climbs. You will enjoy this route more if you place a nut or cam enroute to the first bolt. The route gets steep here with fun moves on steep pockets....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Canyon Road Cliffs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Foy
From: Denver, CO
Oct 2, 2003
Gear Alert
Be careful, some of these routes are missing bolts/hangers that the guide says are there. I'm not sure what the deal is with them. But we noticed when walking in to Razor Hueco Arete that some of the routes are missing hardware. Especially on the first three routes in the Bob D guide.
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
May 29, 2008
The description of the approach in the guide is out of date. BLM has closed the final part of the road and you now park 100yds or so shy of the first climbs in the canyon. The old parking area is about 1/4 - 1/2 mile up the closed road.
By Robby Cribbs
From: Boulder, CO
May 16, 2010
Anyone know the names of these unknown climbs?
By john strand
From: southern colo
Apr 9, 2014
There is some pretty good climbing here...but many missing/stolen hanger...beware.