Big Belt Mountains Rock Climbing
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: | 4,367 ft |
GPS: |
46.65001, -111.59471 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 144,703 total · 1,068/month |
Shared By: | The Morse-Bradys on Feb 1, 2013 · Updates |
Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
Description
The Big Belt Mountains are a range east of Canyon Ferry Reservoir outside of Helena. The range runs from southwest of Great Falls to the Northern Bridgers. The central and northern portions of the range (north of Highway 12, between Townsend and White Sulphur Springs) hold the most interesting features from a climber's perspective. In particular, the canyons on the western side have abundant limestone outcrops and cliffs, and some of the rock is even good quality. Given the sometimes friable nature of the rock, most routes are bolt protected, although some mixed and trad routes have been established. Helmets are a good idea, particularly on newly established climbs that have not cleaned up, and in the spring, when loose rock created by the freeze-thaw cycle may be exfoliating.
Beaver Creek, Trout Creek, Hellgate Gulch, and Avalanche Gulch have the most developed climbing, ranging from short single pitch routes next to the road, to multipitch lines in the back country. Many of the routes can be found in guide books like the 1995 "The Rock Climbers Guide to Montana", the more recent but out of print "Central Montana Rock", and the recently published, "The Big Empty". Plenty of climbs are not in these publications or on Mountain Project, so climbers should expect to see unlisted routes at most crags. Some have dog tags with the route name and grade hanging on the first bolt (Avalanche Gulch in particular), others are listed on beta sheets available at Stone Tree Climbing Gym in Helena.
With careful route and area selection, it is possible to climb here year-round in all but the most snowy and cold conditions. Winter Wall in Hellgate Canyon is usually pleasant on sunny winter days. In the heat of the summer, it is possible to chase shade in all areas, but areas in upper Beaver Creek and Trout Creek are particularly nice. Many of these areas are also popular with the OHV crowd, and campsites (established and dispersed) can be busy on summer weekends. Hellgate and Avalanche gulches in particular can have a near constant stream of trucks, quads, and dirt bikes. For those seeking a quiet climbing experience, Beaver and Trout both offer the option to climb further away from the road.
Most crags in the range are under an hours drive from Helena, and around two hours from Bozeman. Dispersed camping can be found on the surrounding National Forest lands and developed camp sites are available at the Trout Creek trail-head east of York and in numerous campgrounds on Canyon Ferry Reservoir.
Beaver Creek, Trout Creek, Hellgate Gulch, and Avalanche Gulch have the most developed climbing, ranging from short single pitch routes next to the road, to multipitch lines in the back country. Many of the routes can be found in guide books like the 1995 "The Rock Climbers Guide to Montana", the more recent but out of print "Central Montana Rock", and the recently published, "The Big Empty". Plenty of climbs are not in these publications or on Mountain Project, so climbers should expect to see unlisted routes at most crags. Some have dog tags with the route name and grade hanging on the first bolt (Avalanche Gulch in particular), others are listed on beta sheets available at Stone Tree Climbing Gym in Helena.
With careful route and area selection, it is possible to climb here year-round in all but the most snowy and cold conditions. Winter Wall in Hellgate Canyon is usually pleasant on sunny winter days. In the heat of the summer, it is possible to chase shade in all areas, but areas in upper Beaver Creek and Trout Creek are particularly nice. Many of these areas are also popular with the OHV crowd, and campsites (established and dispersed) can be busy on summer weekends. Hellgate and Avalanche gulches in particular can have a near constant stream of trucks, quads, and dirt bikes. For those seeking a quiet climbing experience, Beaver and Trout both offer the option to climb further away from the road.
Most crags in the range are under an hours drive from Helena, and around two hours from Bozeman. Dispersed camping can be found on the surrounding National Forest lands and developed camp sites are available at the Trout Creek trail-head east of York and in numerous campgrounds on Canyon Ferry Reservoir.
Getting There
The northern most areas, Trout and Beaver Creek, are best accessed through Helena and York. From Helena navigate to York Road off of Custer Ave. Drive this northeast to the York Bar and either turn left to Nelson and Beaver Creek or stay straight to get to Trout Creek. Hellgate and Avalanche Gulches can be accessed from Helena or Townsend. From Helena, head east on Canyon Ferry Road off Custer or take the 284 cutoff from Highway 12/287 to get to Canyon Ferry Road. Follow the road over the dam, through the development, and past Magpie Gulch staying on the main road. After the speed limit increases, you should see national forest signs on you left for Hellgate and then Avalanche in around a mile of so.
If you are coming from Townsend, head east on Highway 12, but before you reach the mountains go north on Highway 284. After about 20-30 minutes you should see signs for Avalanche then Hellgate Gulches. You can stay on the road until you reach Jimtown Road near the north end of the reservoir if you are headed to Beaver or Trout Creeks via York, but unless you are making a stop on that side of the lake first, it is probably faster to come through Helena.
If you are coming from Townsend, head east on Highway 12, but before you reach the mountains go north on Highway 284. After about 20-30 minutes you should see signs for Avalanche then Hellgate Gulches. You can stay on the road until you reach Jimtown Road near the north end of the reservoir if you are headed to Beaver or Trout Creeks via York, but unless you are making a stop on that side of the lake first, it is probably faster to come through Helena.
Classic Climbing Routes at Big Belt Mountains
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Weather Averages
High
|
Low
|
Precip
|
Days w Precip
|
Prime Climbing Season
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
Photos
All Photos Within Big Belt Mountains
Most Popular · Newest · RandomMore About Big Belt Mountains
Printer-FriendlyWhat's New
Guidebooks (7)
4 Comments