Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches
FA: FRA: Joe Frank and Steve Hall, 1975. Variation: ???
Page Views: 1,147 total · 10/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Nov 10, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Blob, Security Risk DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Instead of scrambling up to the grassy ledge, start from the very bottom near the apple tree.

Pitch 1 - carefully start up the decomposed slab to big jugs below the large roof that helps gain the wall. Place a yellow Alien/TCU in the small, diagonal crack in the steep face left of the roof crack. A pink Tri-cam fits well at the lip of the roof crack. Be sure of these pieces because the powerful moves over the roof (5.10b) could spit you off.... Follow the diagonal seem up and right. Climb straight up through a small roof to gain the classic, left-facing corner (5.9) above. Mantel onto the beautiful ledge to set a belay. Climbing this whole route as 1 pitch is possible, but rope drag is not fun....

Pitch 2 - climb the arching, right-facing corner (5.10a) past wild moves above the belay ledge. Continue up the moderate ramp to gain the obvious corner crack (5.8) on the back (east) side of the Green Gargoyle tower. Jam the hand crack in the corner to the top of the Green Gargoyle.

Lots of incredible holds and crack climbing make this a really classic route!

Protection Suggest change

Many smaller nuts to 3" protect this journey. Descend from the top of Scrundle Corner....

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