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The Sapper Cave
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Butterfly Effect, The 
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Kiss That Stings, The 
Left El Sapper 
Less Than Zero 
Peleliu 
Right El Sapper 
Rumor Has It 
That One Climb 
Tijuana Crack Whore 
Westerplatte 

Cantina Boy 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Eric Candee, Brad Burroughs
Page Views: 825
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Dec 5, 2001
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Melissa Love on Canteen Boy.

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Description 

This is a very atypical Rifle climb in that it's both short and follows a fairly monolithic face (as opposed to the usual blocky stuff). The climbing is fingery and sequential, with two distinct bouldery cruxes separated by a good jug. There is a hard clip up high that some people either skip or put long draws on. The air is clean -- it's just a long drop.

Cantina Boy is on the left side of the Sapper Cave and shares a common first two bolts with Hand Me the Canteen, Boy, the arching pod system/crack feature in the center of the cave. After the second bolt, move into a faint dihedral (very overhanging) and up to the lip of a small roof. Thin, cryptic climbing awaits you on the light grey face above. An easier corner takes you to the anchors.


Protection 

8 quickdraws.



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By MattG
Jul 15, 2005
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

Felt every bit of .13b to me - some really hard and sequential moves at the crux. One involves grabbing an undercling which is about the same size as a potato chip. Another bonus - this cave is usually not crowded at all. Get on it!!!