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 ADVANCED
The Sapper Cave
Routes Sorted
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Butterfly Effect, The S 
Cantina Boy S 
Cool World S 
Crowd Pleaser S 
Hand Me the Canteen, Boy S 
Handy Boy S 
Kiss That Stings, The S 
Left El Sapper S 
Less Than Zero S 
Peleliu S 
Right El Sapper S 
Rumor Has It S 
That One Climb S 
Tijuana Crack Whore S 
Westerplatte S 

Cantina Boy 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Eric Candee, Brad Burroughs
Page Views: 919
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Dec 5, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Melissa Love on Canteen Boy.

Description 

This is a very atypical Rifle climb in that it's both short and follows a fairly monolithic face (as opposed to the usual blocky stuff). The climbing is fingery and sequential, with two distinct bouldery cruxes separated by a good jug. There is a hard clip up high that some people either skip or put long draws on. The air is clean -- it's just a long drop.

Cantina Boy is on the left side of the Sapper Cave and shares a common first two bolts with Hand Me the Canteen, Boy, the arching pod system/crack feature in the center of the cave. After the second bolt, move into a faint dihedral (very overhanging) and up to the lip of a small roof. Thin, cryptic climbing awaits you on the light grey face above. An easier corner takes you to the anchors.


Protection 

8 quickdraws.



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By MattG
Jul 15, 2005
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Felt every bit of .13b to me - some really hard and sequential moves at the crux. One involves grabbing an undercling which is about the same size as a potato chip. Another bonus - this cave is usually not crowded at all. Get on it!!!