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Shirt Tail Peak
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Can't Find My Way Home 
Cro-Magnon aka The Tail 
Destruction 
Double Life 
Emperor's New Shoes, The 
Future Primitive 
Gambit 
Ginseng Junkie 
Giuoco Piano Direct 
King Of Pain 
Missing Link 
Moriarty's Mistake 
Moriarty's Revenge 
Mountaineer's Route 
Mrs. Clean Gets Down 
Serrated Jam Crack 
Throne, The 
Tiger Balm Arete 
Windlass or 'The Tail' 

Can't Find My Way Home 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 270'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Hammond and Kevin Bains 9-2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 249
Submitted By: Mark Hammond on Sep 25, 2008
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  • Description 

    P1-5.8s - Climb up an arete/face feature for about 25ft, then move L. to next cleaner rock and up. Continue to trend L. to cross big ledge with tree. (This is where a single rope rap will land you, then you can scramble off skier's right.)
    Climb straight up set of several shallow corners (small cams to start) and aim for big tree with rap slings. Beware loose rock on this pitch. This pitch is contrived and wandering to follow the best climbing with the best chance for protection (while avoiding the worst of the loose rock).

    P2-5.9, 60ft - Climb up to next big tree with slings through double cracks through overhang, then move L to finish up crack with tiny tree in it. Longer, though less steep crack/corners exist to left.

    P3-5.10-80ft - Above is a sweet looking corner on R or a blocky, stem-boxy overhanging system on L. Right looks better but isn't (we did both). Take the left system and grunt up into it. End at large belay/rappel tree.


    Location 

    Start at bent tree to the left of start for Tiger Balm Arete, where trail is forced away from base of cliff. Route climbs the rappel route (one of them), so rap.


    Protection 

    Basic Eldo rack.



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