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Canon

Original Post
Louis Eubank · · Portland, ME · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 181

Anyone know what the rock conditions are like at Canon or Cathedral / Whitehorse this week? Looking to get in some early trad, and I have no idea if they're snow / ice free yet. Thanks, and feel free to PM me if you'd like to come with.

johnthethird · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 5

neclimbs.com might yield some better results.

If you dont mind, when you find out, post up here. Im hoping to get to Cannon in mid may

bayard russell jr · · Madison, NH · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310

Cathedral is still pretty wet, but it looks like a good forecast for drier conditions for next weekend. Whitehorse is probably pretty good to go in a lot of places, it's a sunnier and less seepy cliff and I wouldn't suggest climbing on Cannon for a while. It has been a cold spring and it is just starting its annual freeze-thaw-and-fall-apart period. Late May is usually good up there.

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,960
bayard russell jr wrote:Cathedral is still pretty wet, but it looks like a good forecast for drier conditions for next weekend. Whitehorse is probably pretty good to go in a lot of places, it's a sunnier and less seepy cliff and I wouldn't suggest climbing on Cannon for a while. It has been a cold spring and it is just starting its annual freeze-thaw-and-fall-apart period. Late May is usually good up there.
Bayard... u da man dood!
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

You may want to try- hall's ledge, Mt Oscar, or the new Durham area.. all on MP

Ben Brotelho · · Albany, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 520

Someone just did Endeavour on White's Ledge. Looks like a good contender for a warm up climb for the season

mountainproject.com/v/endea…

Noah Haber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 78

I'll echo the above. Cannon is slowly falling apart, and especially so in the spring due to freeze-thaw. I would stay away for at least another month. The bugs will start to come out by then, so pick a day with a bit of breeze.

Eric G. · · Saratoga Springs, NY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 70

WG is the first climb that'll be ready but, of course, all the usually caveats apply.

MattWallace · · Center Harbor, NH · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 8,752

I just did Endeavour at White's on 4/21 Ledge and everything up there was climbable yesterday so you could climb there, also most of the slabs on Whitehorse looked pretty good to go, Cathedral was still seeping in many places but you could find something. From the road Humphrey's looked wet in place but the left side looked fairly good. Hope this helps!

I echo all the sentiments about Cannon, it is falling apart all over the place with the freeze thaw period so avoid it until late may.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

Humphrey's dries out first and is decent for a day, IIRC.

stackolee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

moby grape this past weekend was in beautiful (dry) shape. Of course, the dike is still dropping massive blocks, but that seems about par for the course this time of year.

Brendan Blanchard · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 590
stackolee wrote:moby grape this past weekend was in beautiful (dry) shape. Of course, the dike is still dropping massive blocks, but that seems about par for the course this time of year.
Yup, also did Moby this weekend. The only wet stuff was after the finger of fate pitch, moving up after the traverse, then up and right to the cave. Kurts corner was also a waterfall, but the regular finish was mostly dry.

I was near Slow and Easy when the dike let loose some refrigerator blocks. Fricken loud, but safe so long as you weren't under the dike, headed towards Whitney.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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