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Cannon Ice Climbs

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Black Dike 
Fafnir 
Omega 

Cannon Ice Climbs  


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Location: 44.15601, -71.68723 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 50,724
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Feb 1, 2008
Forecast:
Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue
Mostly Cloudy
41° | 29°
Snow Showers
38° | 24°
Snow Showers
30° | 18°
Clear
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Partly Cloudy
43° | 36°
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BETA PHOTO: Cannon Cliff in full on cold January conditions...

Description 

tba

Getting There 

tba

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.8 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cannon Ice Climbs:
Fafnir   WI5+     Ice, 3 pitches, 450'   
Black Dike   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI4-5 M3     Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Classics in Cannon Ice Climbs

Featured Route For Cannon Ice Climbs
Rusty Reno leading the crux

Fafnir WI5+  NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Cannon Ice Climbs
Too many people on the Black Dike? Look to the right - wow that looks crazy, and it is. Conditions really vary on this route, but it often demonstrates some wild blocky climbing through ice ceilings. Strong upgulley winds can form horizontal ice roofs that have to be negotiated. P1. Up the Black Dike gulleyP2. Step right, climb through bulges to a snow ledge. P3. Continue through blocky climbing on sometimes thin ice (crux) then through mixed climbing up a small gulley to top. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Cannon Ice Climbs Slideshow Add Photo
Mark Richey and Freddie Wilkinson new routing to the right of Omega.  <br /> <br /><a href='http://www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com</a>
Mark Richey and Freddie Wilkinson new routing to t...
Cannon in the winter. <br /><a href='http://www.bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com</a>
Cannon in the winter. bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com

Comments on Cannon Ice Climbs Add Comment
Show which comments
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Feb 20, 2012
There are a couple of new routes on Cannon. one is left of Omega near the giant right facing corner of Henderson's Buttress. The climbed is called Mean Streak and it probably a WIE7M8? It difficult to say the least. Andy Tuthill and ? did the route. I think it was 2010. The other route was done by Mark Richey and ?. Its recent. I don't know its name or its location. There's a you tube video of the ascent. It looks like there on the south side somewhere.
By Reggie Pawle
Feb 24, 2012
Brad, is this the route by Mark Richey and Freddie Wilkinson you were thinking of? bagleyheavybags.blogspot.com/2...

Mean Streak is reported to be WI6 M7 and was climbed by Will Mayo and Andy Tuthill on December 11, 2007. Source: alpinist.com/doc/web07-08w/new...

Bayard Russell also has an awesome topo of Cannon's big wall section on his blog: whitemountainrockandice.com/20...
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Dec 19, 2012
Thanks, for the link ups. Bagleyheavybags is removed. It looked like Mark Richey was on TOM, TOM when I watched a youtube cannon winter ascent of him.
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Feb 25, 2013
Perhaps someone would be willing to do some Mountain Project write-ups of these routes? This would be great for the Mark Richey / Freddie Wilkinson ascent north of Omega as I have found the least information on this particular climb. Icarus, Daedalus, the Minotaur, and Mean Streak all have great topos and route descriptions on other sites and blogs. I feel that our online guidebook is especially lacking as far as Cannon's winter alpine world is concerned. These are some of greatest marks of New England alpinism, and I would very much like to see them cataloged here.