Too many people on the Black Dike? Look to the right - wow that looks crazy, and it is. Conditions really vary on this route, but it often demonstrates some wild blocky climbing through ice ceilings. Strong upgulley winds can form horizontal ice roofs that have to be negotiated. P1. Up the Black Dike gulleyP2. Step right, climb through bulges to a snow ledge. P3. Continue through blocky climbing on sometimes thin ice (crux) then through mixed climbing up a small gulley to top. ...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
There are a couple of new routes on Cannon. one is left of Omega near the giant right facing corner of Henderson's Buttress. The climbed is called Mean Streak and it probably a WIE7M8? It difficult to say the least. Andy Tuthill and ? did the route. I think it was 2010. The other route was done by Mark Richey and ?. Its recent. I don't know its name or its location. There's a you tube video of the ascent. It looks like there on the south side somewhere.
Perhaps someone would be willing to do some Mountain Project write-ups of these routes? This would be great for the Mark Richey / Freddie Wilkinson ascent north of Omega as I have found the least information on this particular climb. Icarus, Daedalus, the Minotaur, and Mean Streak all have great topos and route descriptions on other sites and blogs. I feel that our online guidebook is especially lacking as far as Cannon's winter alpine world is concerned. These are some of greatest marks of New England alpinism, and I would very much like to see them cataloged here.