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A technical masterpiece of face-climbing wizardry exemplifying the best Donner has to offer. This is the first route in the Cannibals Gully to the right of the "Little Feat" arete. Work up into a shallow right-facing dihedral, then follow the left trending panel on a series of thin liebacks and underclings. Tackle the thuggish, devious boulder problem with seemingly nonexistent feet which then deposits you at a "thank god" jug for recovery at half heighth. The upper face challenges you with a series of small crimps, side pulls, small pinches and finally the infamous "peanut," none of which will do you much good unless you deduce the footwork trickery.
Hard for the grade.
Among the east face climbs just to the right of the "Little Feat" arete in the Cannibals Gully.
About 8 quickdraws and 2 for the anchors
|By peachy spohn|
Aug 25, 2012
An amazing route. The "Corner of Hell" is the hardest part, but the peanut at the top is a heart breaker! Definitely harder than 12d, but I guess you got to go with the flow.
|By J. Albers|
Nov 30, 2012
^^^^^ "Harder than 12d"
Indeed all the locals know full well that Cannibals is 5.13, but they will all nevertheless state to you in person that it is 12d with a *wink, wink*....tradition I guess. This includes Mr. Eison who entered the route (and broke a good foothold while running laps on the route) and my friend, Mr. Kennedy (aka Sergeant Sandbag) who is a longtime local. I think most routes put up by Mr. Frye are graded as "Scott Frye 5.xx" with everyone knowing that it is code for "the route is hard for the grade".
|By Rob Eison|
From: Denver, CO
Dec 6, 2012
Guilty as charged on all counts! I succumbed to the brainwashing as well. I bet Russ is still grumbling about the foot chip...