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Cannabis Sportiva 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Gail Effron
Page Views: 5,621
Submitted By: Matt Robertson on Oct 24, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (111)
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A good view of Lower Animal World taken from the t...

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Description 

Cannabis Sportiva starts left of the Joint Venture corner on the West Buttress of Animal World, immediately right of a small roof 10 feet off the ground. Look high and see a short line of bolts up a steepening face near the top of the cliff.

From the ground, roll up easy cracks and ledges, then mantle a shelf at the start of the steeper climbing where bolts indicate the way. Blaze up interesting and sometimes reachy zig-zag moves on crystalline stone of increasing angle, where holds get bigger as you get higher, until a very positive horn is hit for the last clip. Grab a token puff of chalk, shake out and inhale for the big move. Fire up powerfully from the horn, or use a fingerlock that seems too paranoid for 11a, and grope for some high, blind slopers atop the face to clip the chains with an ear-to-ear grin.

A fun pitch, made slightly more enjoyable by sensible bolting; sure to provide a buzz.

Protection 

Draws for six bolts and chain anchors. Small cams and one medium bong optional. Kindly bolted up high; the first forty feet (5.7-.8) has no fixed gear. The prudent leader might bring a couple small cams or a nut sack; abundant cracks below the bolted face should eat any gear up to a #1 Camalot. One 60 meter rope will bring you down from your high.


Photos of Cannabis Sportiva Slideshow Add Photo
Brian Wandzilak rappelling Cannabis Sportiva.  Jon...
Brian Wandzilak rappelling Cannabis Sportiva. Jon...
Climber on Cannabis Sportiva as viewed from Joint ...
Climber on Cannabis Sportiva as viewed from Joint ...
Red arrow marks the horn.
BETA PHOTO: Red arrow marks the horn.
John Fleming running out the start of Cannabis Spo...
John Fleming running out the start of Cannabis Spo...
Nearing the buisness move on "Cannabis Sporti...
Nearing the buisness move on "Cannabis Sporti...

Comments on Cannabis Sportiva Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 16, 2014
By Jon Cannon
Jul 1, 2002

It's possible to heel-hook the horn to get some additional leverage while trying to pull the burly .11a move; Laura Black tried it on Saturday, 6/29/02, and it seemed to give her the extra bit of "oomph" weaklings like me need to pull harder moves. This is a thoroughly enjoyable climb, made more enjoyable by the steadily-increasing difficulty.

It might be just me, but it appears to me that the left bolt at the top of this route could probably stand to be replaced.
By Brian T. Wandzilak
Aug 30, 2002

The horn that Jon mentioned seemed very out-of-place on this route. But I welcomed it with tired hands. A really cool route. The line more or less goes up the middle of the picture below. The bolts start right about where the sun is shining. Where the sun don't shine is the crack system. A few smaller cams or stoppers would take care of this pretty easily. Enjoy this climb it is one that about any intermediate climbe can do.
By Karl Nichols
Feb 22, 2003

Per my buddy from Canada, this route is very kind in a couple of ways, eh?

Great climb but a bit overrated and probably climbs around a 10c/d at most.
By shad O'Neel
May 14, 2003

Starting the route proper just barely to the right of the roof seemed balancy and tricky, especially right off the deck. I'm sure you can walk up the gully further right.....enjoyable route with crack climber feel up high. I'm surprised how many bolts there are. The finger locks were bomber; felt like 10a at Eldo.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 18, 2003

Fun route, and a gimme at 11a.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 30, 2005

The Rolofson guide says the last moves are 10b if you use the crack a few feet to the left or 11a if you don't. That may explain the difference in opinion as to the rating. It's pretty contrived NOT to use the crack on the left. Why not do it both ways? Climb the 10 crack, step back down, then climb it direct.
By SirVato
From: Boulder
May 15, 2006

Sweet pitch!! The moves off the ground were fun and that carries through to the rest of the route.

I took green/yellow/red Aliens and .75/1/2 Camalots for the start, and found that to be fine for gear on the lower portion of the route.
By Brad Schildt
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 9, 2007

Kudos to Matt Robertson for a classic route description! I found 13 reeferences...
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
May 8, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

ALERT: If you climb Joint Venture first to the bolted anchor and then traverse back left to 'Cannabis Sportiva', there is a big, TV-sized, loose block about 6' left of the anchor sitting on a ledge. It looks like a great hand jam behind it to make the traverse but - DO NOT PULL ON IT!! We would have thrown this to the ground, but were worried about it eventually rolling to the highway. It certainly needs to come off though.
By Jason Shatek
Aug 18, 2008

I thought this was a 10ish route. Probably 10c or d even with the left crack. A few balancy moves followed by some beat your chest ape moves. The horn makes it just plain fun and the bolts are very well placed. Kudos to the bolter.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
May 21, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Don't be fooled by the featured start. Be prepared to be a little run out on small gear heading up to the bolts. The first piece of gear was well off the ground and I felt was strenuous to place. Small cams are advisable.
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Apr 2, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The prudent leader might bring a nut sack?!?

EASY, Robertson. Let's let the ladies have a go, too.

Fabulous fun climb for the grade, which I place at a couple letter grades below 11a, especially if'n you're tall and long armed. The punch all comes at the very end, with generous bolts and some THANK GOD holds on top.

Takes sequence, though--gotta hit the finish right. (No cheap beta; it's either left hand or right. You gotta 50/50 chance, sucka!)
By keith story
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 28, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The last couple moves are quite creative and made this route.

NOTE FOR SELF-RAPPEL:
Ya might want to set up a trolley or something, otherwise you'll be swinging hard if ya need to unclip your draws on the way down.
By Drew Clements
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 7, 2012

Double finger jam to a semi-dynamic throw under the anchors, 5.Fun.
By John Dubya
Jun 21, 2013

The last 2 or 3 bolts are spinning, as well the anchor bolts. Feels safe, but if someone can take a wrench up there, it would be better. Great climb!
By B. Smith
From: Englewood, CO
Mar 16, 2014

I used cams #0.3-2 for the first section and they worked perfectly. I was a little far off the ground when I got my first piece in, but it was easy climbing. I think the "5.11 crux" was more like 10b/c. Maybe it is height-dependent? This was a very fun climb and kinda made my day.