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Unsorted Routes:

Candyland 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 450', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA: David Lovejoy, Dwight Bradley (1970) FFA: Karl Karlstrom, Rusty Baillie, David Lovejoy (1972)
Page Views: 10,649
Submitted By: Larry Coats on Sep 1, 2007

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Heather Hayes pulling the crux on the first pitch ...

Falcon closures. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Candyland is the right-hand crack system that climbs to the Great Roof in the middle section of Granite Mountain, and exits the roof to the right.

Pitch 1: Climb up to the right end of a large flake and traverse it back left to the base of the main crack. Follow this crack through increasingly difficult jamming and stemming to the crux flakes near the bolt (5.10), through the overhang and to the belay on three modern bolts (thanks to efforts by Rusty Baillie).

Pitch 2: Clip a draw to the highest bolt and ooze into the severely flaring and insecure chimney above. Fortunately a couple modern microcams (.4's,.5's) fit into pockets in the degraded crack in the back, making the awkward moves above much less scary (back in the day bad #1 stoppers were it!). This short pitch ends at a solid two-bolt belay.

Pitch 3: Climb the obvious corner crack above- widening from thin hands to larger than fists. Belay on the amazing ledge below the Great Roof.

Pitch 4: Stem up the main corner, past a bald spot, to reach the roof, stuff in some small cams, and hand traverse rightwards as fast as your arm strength allows. Continue following the horizontal crack system around the corner to another amazing belay ledge on the main face. Arrange a belay with gear

Pitch 5: Head straight up the beautiful thin fingers to ringlocks crack before turning the roof-flake on the left. Be sure to runner the hand-sized piece under the roof to avoid rope drag on the long pitch above. Follow easier ground up the main crack system, passing a couple of ledgey areas, before gaining the final blank corner and the summit boulder problem. The route ends to the right of a pointed boulder that is the highest point on the entire crag.

Protection 

A typical Granite Mountain rack with wires and cams to #4 Camalot.


Photos of Candyland Slideshow Add Photo
view out the candyland side of the roof.
view out the candyland side of the roof.
Take a deep breath, focus your mind, and sprint for the footholds! Doug Biber about to launch into the delightful but intimidating 4th pitch traverse on Candyland.
Take a deep breath, focus your mind, and sprint fo...
The awkward crux chimney moves on the second pitch of Candyland (L. Coats)
The awkward crux chimney moves on the second pitch...
Exposed elegance- a climber pulls the roof/ flake above the crux of the 5th pitch of Candyland.
Exposed elegance- a climber pulls the roof/ flake ...
Perfect gear, perfect jams, perfect rock- what more can you ask? Heather Hayes fires the beautiful third pitch of Candyland.
Perfect gear, perfect jams, perfect rock- what mor...
Greg on the 5.8 super exposed! traverse.
Greg on the 5.8 super exposed! traverse.
Paul Horak pulling the roof in 1977 ...
Paul Horak pulling the roof in 1977 ...
A very young Larry Coats on the ledge below the Great Roof (mid-70's). Photo by Dugald Bremner
A very young Larry Coats on the ledge below the Gr...
Randy finishing the great roof pitch
Randy finishing the great roof pitch
Another shot of the traverse
Another shot of the traverse
Scott Baxter arrives at the first pitch stance in summer, 2003, just before the lightning storm started.
Scott Baxter arrives at the first pitch stance in ...
Recreated from memory about two weeks later.
BETA PHOTO: Recreated from memory about two weeks later.

Comments on Candyland Add Comment
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By Tim Heid
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Sep 15, 2011

P1: 5.10
P2: 5.9
P3: 5.9
P4: 5.7
P5: 5.9

You can always do the first few pitches of Coatimudni Whiteout until you get under the Great Roof and then go right instead of left, finishing up on Candyland. This keeps the rating around 5.9ish.
By jeffrey c gibson
From: pheonix az
Feb 1, 2012

I didn't think the approach was that bad....
By Matt Juaire
Aug 30, 2013

Coming from out of town (Tucson), any suggestions for this route?
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 31, 2013

Granite Mountain is closed because it was consumed by the Doce Fire this summer. The earliest it would possibly reopen would be the end of September.
By Nick Dolhyj 1
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 9, 2014

made it to the end of pitch 3 before a nasty monsoon took us by surprise, definitely going to come back and finish out the route! also got a silver bd nut stuck on pitch 2, enjoy clipping that to protect the weird crux move