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This climbs an overhanging knobby wall, with a thin crack at the top.
This climb faces west.
Thin, slings to tie off knobs.
Kevin Chapin gets perplexed as the knobs run out a...
The lower crux is standing up and reaching the nex...
That's a rap! Fly girl M and her shadow on a fine...
Chickenheads, well, the size of heads...
Brad in the midst of the fun chickenheads!
Post onsite lead. Very excited! Coming from Texa...
Climber nearing the top of Candyland. Photo taken ...
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 18, 2006
This is a memorable route, I remember knobs as big as fire hydrants. You can mantle up one and then sit on it! A wild one.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 6, 2007
The wildest climb on the Middle Spire. Make sure you have 4 3-4 ft slings ready to tie off the bowling ball sized knobs. An unforgettable climb...
A #2 camalot could be placed after the 30ft 5.4 runout. The largest piece that you will place on the upper section is a green alien. The thin crack is the perfect size for a couple #3 ballnuts.
Jun 24, 2009
This route gave me that "Holy @#$%!" feeling I only get on truly great routes. Five stars!
From: San Francisco
Aug 24, 2009
classic! Big reaches between giant muffin-tops. Don't pay any attention to Supertopo gear beta. Bring a few finger and smaller-than-finger sized cams and SMALL nuts for the horizontal cracks above the knobs and for the vertical crack, also bring one #1 for the bigger crack at the top.
Crux is moving into the vertical crack at the top of the route. Don't be fooled by the crack though, the climbing is mostly face climbing with a small nut sized crack for pro.
|By will smith|
Oct 31, 2010
Thanks for the pics. This is one of the most memorable routes you'll ever do. I often mention this route when using chicken heads for pro.
A route you'll never forget.
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Dec 15, 2011
I kept waiting for that upper crux and never really found it. Having a few micro cams kept the pro pretty reasonable between the horizontal break and the finger crack up top. I thought the committing reach between two of the huge knobs down low was the crux.
This climb is unique to my experience, something I'd recommend for any climber in the 5.10 trad range.
|By Matt Twyman|
From: Austin, TX
Jun 28, 2012
I can't fathom how this route would receive anything less than the max # of stars. Absolute joy to lead. The combination of a wonderful setting, fun moves in a funky head space, wild protection on/in perfect stone and reasonable height make this a definitive classic in my mind. I couldn't wait to get on this and was so psyched to onsite it. Felt like I should be paying for this much fun.
4ft runners are ideal for slinging. those aren't really knobs or chicken heads... more like bowling balls. I'd only brought two 4 footers and ended up having to girth two 2-footers together on the upper bowling balls. Crack doesn't climb like one at all. Very sporty but there are tons of great places for rather small gear (BD 0.1 red cams and green nuts). I plugged in 3 pieces because whenever I looked up I got spooked by the appearance of that small crack and thinking it was going to be really cruxy, but it never really was. Rather odd to have to anchors so far left, but understand the desire to have a single set for both routes. The traverse out to them is chill and you at least get to finish on one hell of a jug.
|By Tyson W.|
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 24, 2013
This climb would probably warrant four stars regardless of whether or not the climbing was any good, just based on how ridiculously cool the features are.
Luckily for us, it climbs great, is on an ever so slightly overhung face, in a gorgeous Tahoe setting, and takes a plumb line straight up the face of the easily accessible Middle Spire.
When they are classic in Tahoe, they are classic...
Crux was definitely the lower reach between chicken heads for me. There is a great rest before committing to the moves to get to the next set of knobs if you find it, helped me a ton!
|By Rennie Putnam|
From: Davis, CA
Nov 6, 2013
I ate a sandwich while sitting on the big knob.
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Nov 16, 2013
As long as you didn't pinch a loaf.