Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Middle Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anal Sex T 
Candyass T 
Candyland T 
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 
Clam, The T 
Cockabooty T 
Corn Flakes T 
Fancy Dancin' T,S 
Hard Up T 
Harding's Other Chimney T 
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 
Lean And Mean T 
Leaner and Meaner T 
Over Easy T 
Penny Candy S 
Prow, The S 
Rain Song S,TR 
Regular Route T 
Slowdancer T 
Tyro's Test Piece T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed T 

Candyland 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Eric Barrett, John Bowlin, R. Orevitz, 1977.
Page Views: 6,431
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (84)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The lower crux is standing up and reaching the nex...
Dirt road winter closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climbs an overhanging knobby wall, with a thin crack at the top.
This climb faces west.


Protection 

Thin, slings to tie off knobs.



Photos of Candyland Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin Chapin gets perplexed as the knobs run out and the crux begins on Candyland.
Kevin Chapin gets perplexed as the knobs run out a...
That's a rap!  Fly girl M and her shadow on a fine September afternoon.
That's a rap! Fly girl M and her shadow on a fine...
Carmela top roping with Brian on Belay
Carmela top roping with Brian on Belay
Climber nearing the top of Candyland. Photo taken from the top of Fear of Flying on Upper Spire.
Climber nearing the top of Candyland. Photo taken ...
Candyland heads straight up the face. The rope seen in the picture is actually going up Candy Ass (5.10d), which is the sport route immediately left of the route.  Look for the imposing, yet simple slab leading up to the 12"+ knobs.
BETA PHOTO: Candyland heads straight up the face. The rope see...
Post onsite lead.  Very excited!  Coming from Texas, the one thing I wanted to do on 1wk trip to Lake Tahoe.
Post onsite lead. Very excited! Coming from Texa...
Brad in the midst of the fun chickenheads!
Brad in the midst of the fun chickenheads!
Chickenheads, well, the size of heads...
Chickenheads, well, the size of heads...
Comments on Candyland Add Comment
Show which comments
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 18, 2006

This is a memorable route, I remember knobs as big as fire hydrants. You can mantle up one and then sit on it! A wild one.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 6, 2007

The wildest climb on the Middle Spire. Make sure you have 4 3-4 ft slings ready to tie off the bowling ball sized knobs. An unforgettable climb...

A #2 camalot could be placed after the 30ft 5.4 runout. The largest piece that you will place on the upper section is a green alien. The thin crack is the perfect size for a couple #3 ballnuts.

By PumpkinEater
From: Sacramento
Jun 24, 2009

This route gave me that "Holy @#$%!" feeling I only get on truly great routes. Five stars!

By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Aug 24, 2009

classic! Big reaches between giant muffin-tops. Don't pay any attention to Supertopo gear beta. Bring a few finger and smaller-than-finger sized cams and SMALL nuts for the horizontal cracks above the knobs and for the vertical crack, also bring one #1 for the bigger crack at the top.

Crux is moving into the vertical crack at the top of the route. Don't be fooled by the crack though, the climbing is mostly face climbing with a small nut sized crack for pro.

By will smith
From: boulder
Oct 31, 2010

Thanks for the pics. This is one of the most memorable routes you'll ever do. I often mention this route when using chicken heads for pro.
A route you'll never forget.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Dec 15, 2011

I kept waiting for that upper crux and never really found it. Having a few micro cams kept the pro pretty reasonable between the horizontal break and the finger crack up top. I thought the committing reach between two of the huge knobs down low was the crux.

This climb is unique to my experience, something I'd recommend for any climber in the 5.10 trad range.

By Matt Twyman
From: Austin, TX
Jun 28, 2012

I can't fathom how this route would receive anything less than the max # of stars. Absolute joy to lead. The combination of a wonderful setting, fun moves in a funky head space, wild protection on/in perfect stone and reasonable height make this a definitive classic in my mind. I couldn't wait to get on this and was so psyched to onsite it. Felt like I should be paying for this much fun.

4ft runners are ideal for slinging. those aren't really knobs or chicken heads... more like bowling balls. I'd only brought two 4 footers and ended up having to girth two 2-footers together on the upper bowling balls. Crack doesn't climb like one at all. Very sporty but there are tons of great places for rather small gear (BD 0.1 red cams and green nuts). I plugged in 3 pieces because whenever I looked up I got spooked by the appearance of that small crack and thinking it was going to be really cruxy, but it never really was. Rather odd to have to anchors so far left, but understand the desire to have a single set for both routes. The traverse out to them is chill and you at least get to finish on one hell of a jug.

By Tyson W.
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 24, 2013

This climb would probably warrant four stars regardless of whether or not the climbing was any good, just based on how ridiculously cool the features are.

Luckily for us, it climbs great, is on an ever so slightly overhung face, in a gorgeous Tahoe setting, and takes a plumb line straight up the face of the easily accessible Middle Spire.

When they are classic in Tahoe, they are classic...

Crux was definitely the lower reach between chicken heads for me. There is a great rest before committing to the moves to get to the next set of knobs if you find it, helped me a ton!

By Rennie Putnam
From: Davis, CA
Nov 6, 2013

I ate a sandwich while sitting on the big knob.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Nov 16, 2013

As long as you didn't pinch a loaf.