Candyland 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Scott Kimball and Gary Sapp, 1984 |
| Submitted By: | paco on Jun 1, 2001 |
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A good route with a great crux pitch.
Approach as for Heart of Norway, but just before reaching it break left across a short but exposed low 5th class traverse. After this continue up and left to the base of the beautiful, left-slanting crack which is the start of the route. Fire up this crux pitch with some fantastic finger locks and a tricky wide section. One may rap from fixed anchors at this point, but the route has some interesting climbing after this also.
Pitch two, swim through a crack which is infested with lichen but continue to cleaner rock and a belly flop through a tunnel to find a nice belay ledge.
Pitch 3 heads out right to a mank bolt a few feet out on a slab. this bolt needs a replacement, although I found an okay #00 TCU placement right above it. Some nice (solid 5.9?) face climbing leads past the bolt and left to easier cracks and the summit.
Protection Bring your average Lumpy rack up to a #3 or #4 Camalot.
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