Climb cracks and the knobby face above, passing a bolt and a fixed pin.
Pro small, slings for knobs.
Jun 24, 2009
Not an "R" route anymore. As of yesterday it's protected with about 7 bolts. The third bolt at the crux is a little older, but otherwise the route felt pretty safe.
|By J. Albers|
Nov 9, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Pumpkin is correct. This route is almost fully bolted, though some may want a gear placement before the first bolt....I think the flake on the slab takes gear in the ballpark size of a 0.75 BD camalot.
|By Ross James|
Aug 24, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
I found this route to be easier than the 10c Candyland to the right. Skip the bolts near the top and place pro in the horizontal cracks instead for giggles!
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
No pins and very well protected after the initial easy slab, which can be protected with smaller c4's.
|By Pavel Burov|
Oct 16, 2013
It is a sport route, not a trad. 7 or 8 draws are enough to protect it.
To toprope bring a couple of double shoulder (120cm, 48") slings and a couple of medium (green to yellow work well) cams. Sling a huge block and backup it with cams. The anchor works for Candyass and Harding's Other Chimney as well. I found it is to be more convenient then use the Candyland anchor to TR Candyass - there are too many people want to climb both these routes at the same time.