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Middle Spire
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Candyass 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dave Hatchett, Tom Burt, 10/1988.
Page Views: 823
Submitted By: Blitzo on Jan 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Description 

Climb cracks and the knobby face above, passing a bolt and a fixed pin.


Protection 

Pro small, slings for knobs.



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By PumpkinEater
From: Sacramento
Jun 24, 2009

Not an "R" route anymore. As of yesterday it's protected with about 7 bolts. The third bolt at the crux is a little older, but otherwise the route felt pretty safe.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Nov 9, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Pumpkin is correct. This route is almost fully bolted, though some may want a gear placement before the first bolt....I think the flake on the slab takes gear in the ballpark size of a 0.75 BD camalot.

By Ross James
Aug 24, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I found this route to be easier than the 10c Candyland to the right. Skip the bolts near the top and place pro in the horizontal cracks instead for giggles!

By BrianWS
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

No pins and very well protected after the initial easy slab, which can be protected with smaller c4's.

By Pavel Burov
Oct 16, 2013

It is a sport route, not a trad. 7 or 8 draws are enough to protect it.

To toprope bring a couple of double shoulder (120cm, 48") slings and a couple of medium (green to yellow work well) cams. Sling a huge block and backup it with cams. The anchor works for Candyass and Harding's Other Chimney as well. I found it is to be more convenient then use the Candyland anchor to TR Candyass - there are too many people want to climb both these routes at the same time.