Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Jim Stuberg, solo, 1981 |
Page Views: | 707 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Mar 18, 2010 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Candy-O, eh? My partner broke me off a chunk of that, trying to avoid the chunk I had been avoiding when I lead it. But it turns out, it was not the only choss around. A chunk twice the size of a basketball came down with several more chunks waiting for the next sucker....
The route is listed at 5.6, but by avoiding all the big, loose holds, it feels much harder. As well, the gear is poor - or at least no better than the rock around it. The route is more R than PG-13 in my opinion.
Still, as short as it is, it seems to take forever, most of the time associated with running around up on the slab trying to find something worthy of a belay. I eventually went left pretty far to get on the corner of the slab with 2 small trees and a thin cam, just above and left of 'Tiny Line.'
Overall, a certain waste of time.
The route is listed at 5.6, but by avoiding all the big, loose holds, it feels much harder. As well, the gear is poor - or at least no better than the rock around it. The route is more R than PG-13 in my opinion.
Still, as short as it is, it seems to take forever, most of the time associated with running around up on the slab trying to find something worthy of a belay. I eventually went left pretty far to get on the corner of the slab with 2 small trees and a thin cam, just above and left of 'Tiny Line.'
Overall, a certain waste of time.
Location
At the left hand edge of the Lower Ramp, the wall goes vertical behind a small, twisted tree. There is an inset formed by 2 hanging dihedrals, with the left-facing one nearest the ramp being 'Candy-O' and the right-facing one 2 meters away in opposition being 'Lemon Line.' 'Tiny Line' is just left of these two and follows the straight and thin, vertical cracks up the wall.
Protection
This and that. A few nuts, a few cams. Take a cordalette to set a belay with. Retreat is a pain, and consists of finishing up the ramp, or taking out all the gear and down-soloing the part of the ramp as for the Ruper/Grand Giraffe approach.
Photos
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