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Raven Rocks South
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Candy O 
Custom Tailored 
Descending Opinion 
Route 66 
Taylor Made 

Candy O 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 68'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 1,221
Submitted By: susan peplow on Dec 16, 2006
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Bryan enjoying the sweet moves on Candy O (5.11b),...

Description 

Middle route on south side of crag


Location 

Just left of Route 66 (5.9).

Route # 885 in Southern CA sport climbing guide


Protection 

8 bolts, shut anchors, rap down



Photos of Candy O Slideshow Add Photo
The extremely beautiful Meg, clipping the second to last draw on her rp on Candy O <br />photo by spike
The extremely beautiful Meg, clipping the second t...
Me checking the loose holds for Felicia.... yep, they are loose.
Me checking the loose holds for Felicia.... yep, t...
At the upper crux on Candy O (5.11b), New Jack City
At the upper crux on Candy O (5.11b), New Jack Cit...
Jen on the upper crux of Candy O
Jen on the upper crux of Candy O
Bryan moving through the lower crux on Candy O (5.11b), NJC
Bryan moving through the lower crux on Candy O (5....
Bolt Locations
BETA PHOTO: Bolt Locations
Erik on the first crux of "Candy-O". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Erik on the first crux of "Candy-O".
Photo by Blit...
Elaine contemplating the upper section of Candy O.
Elaine contemplating the upper section of Candy O.
Bolt Locations
BETA PHOTO: Bolt Locations
Comments on Candy O Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 28, 2007

Extremely fun route and should be considered an area classic. Two distinct cruxes one lower/mid way with second crux clipping the last bolt before the anchors. (hint...go high) Very fun, well protected and a must do.

~Susan

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 28, 2007

This was a fun one. No pump factor, it's more like two cool boulder problems separated by 20' of 5-easy.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Apr 11, 2007

There are like 3 loose layback holds right at the first crux. They flex and have chalk "X's" on them. Will they come off if you use them???? depends on how you use them, but they are loose. Too bad New Jack is an area of critical environmental concern and on the U.S. Register of Historical Places, 'cause I would just pump a few tubes of epoxy behind them there loose flakes.

By duh
Apr 12, 2007

Russ are those flakes that loose? They have always been a little loose since the fa., I was hoping they would last. It's been 11 years since the fa, maybe with the amount of traffic that route sees, it's time to do something about it before we loose those flakes? Anyone have any epoxy?

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Apr 12, 2007

Say Duh.... yeah.... they are pretty loose. I think if I got my fingers behind them and tried to layback or pulled out, they would go. I "thumb spragged" them as a test and they moved about a 1/4" or more.

By duh
Apr 16, 2007

The route has been fixed. Thanks for the info Russ.

By Michael Bartosek
From: Los Angeles
Nov 18, 2009

I agree with the two distinct crux sections with some easier climbing between. A fun route for the grade, the best route on this wall in my opinion (although the 5.9 is a close second)

By Clif Clap
May 22, 2013

Outstanding protection. Every clipping stance felt super secure. While the second crux is reachy and a little desperate, it comes right after a bolt so it's easy mentally to go for it.