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Buck's Bar Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adhesion TR 
Amazing Chimney TR 
Awful Width TR 
Bat Crack Left T,TR 
Bat Crack Right TR 
Bat Roof T,TR 
Bat Roof Direct TR 
Beginner's Cracks T,TR 
Candy Corn Boulder T 
Chamberlin's Chimney T,TR 
Dan's Delight T,TR 
Dinkum T,TR 
Drastical T 
Dreamer TR 
Dreamer to Planned Obsolescence Traverse T 
Fingerprint TR 
Fly or Die TR 
Great Chimney TR 
Khazad Arete TR 
Knob Job TR 
Lap Dancing TR 
Live and Learn T 
Magic Beans T 
Mangler T,TR 
Nightmare TR 
Palm Beach TR 
Planned Obsolescence T,TR 
Pod, The T,TR 
Popcorn T,TR 
Squeeze Cheeze TR 
Test Piece T,TR 
Training Pants T,TR 
Triscuit Rock TR 
Unconquerable T,TR 
Unconquerable-Tunnel Through T 
Whatchamadigit Crack T,TR 

Candy Corn Boulder 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,074
Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Dec 4, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Candy Corn boulder and Beginner Cracks at Cosumnes...

Description 

Candy Corn Boulder starts just right of Beginner's Cracks where two obvious large crack systems angle towards each other and meet about 12' up. Climb left, right, or both to get to easier ground above. I gave this a one star as if you try various starts, you get lots of practice using different crack techniques. By using just the left crack, or just the right crack, or using both cracks, all go at 5.7 or so. Jamming the right crack as a straight-in hand jam goes at 5.9. A good finish to this climb continues up on ramp/large flake above to where you can step left onto the large knob on face. Angle up and right for an easier finish (5.7) or step left further on the two large knobs and continue straight up as on the finish of Popcorn (5.10a depending on height).

Protection 

Candy Corn Boulder is usually done as a toprope but the climb could be protected with medium to large pro up to the beginning of Popcorn but is probably not worth it. Leading up even the easy variation of Popcorn would be run out. Anchors on the top of Beginner's Cracks could be used for toproping this climb.


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By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Feb 6, 2011

A good way to do this climb is to move left about 7' after you are standing after the initial jamming cracks. Move left and finish on the right-most crack. Good gear and fun moves takes you to the top. This is one of the variations of Beginner's Crack but makes the Candy Cane Boulder into a full fun climb.
By cirelachlan
Jul 26, 2014

The candy corn start is pretty polished from chalk and use. The middle of it offers a nice concave grip on the backside. the last part is an uncomfortable width, so jam a foot in there to stand up and reach the mantle exit. The exit crack is the fun part. Perfect fingers all the way out and plenty of knobs for your feet. There is a nice finger crack under the finish that leads from beginner cracks. I like that variation because the finish feels way to short. It needs to be about 40' longer. lol