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California
> Lake Tahoe
> Highway 50 Corr…
> Placerville
> Cosumnes River…
> Bucks Bar Dome
> Main Area
Candy Corn Boulder
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1.8 from 39
votes
Routes in Main Area
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Adhesion TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bat Crack Left T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bat Crack Right TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bat Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bat Roof Direct TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Beginner's Cracks T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Candy Corn Boulder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chamberlin's Chimney T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fingerprint TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fly or Die TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Great Chimney TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Khazad Arete T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Parmesan Prints TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Popcorn T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Rotten Face TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rotten Face (Chimney Var.) TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Squeeze Cheeze TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Test Piece T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Triscuit Rock TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unconquerable T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unconquerable Tunnel Through T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Whatchamadigit Crack T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 20 ft (6 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,884 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Rezucha on Dec 3, 2005 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Candy Corn Boulder starts just right of Beginner's Cracks where two obvious large crack systems angle towards each other and meet about 12' up. Climb left, right, or both to get to easier ground above. I gave this a one star as if you try various starts, you get lots of practice using different crack techniques. By using just the left crack, or just the right crack, or using both cracks, all go at 5.7 or so. Jamming the right crack as a straight-in hand jam goes at 5.9. A good finish to this climb continues up on ramp/large flake above to where you can step left onto the large knob on face. Angle up and right for an easier finish (5.7) or step left further on the two large knobs and continue straight up as on the finish of Popcorn (5.10a depending on height).
Protection
Candy Corn Boulder is usually done as a toprope but the climb could be protected with medium to large pro up to the beginning of Popcorn but is probably not worth it. Leading up even the easy variation of Popcorn would be run out. Anchors on the top of Beginner's Cracks could be used for toproping this climb.
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