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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Unsorted Routes:

Candy Apple Grey 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: see guidebook
Page Views: 760
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Oct 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Sarah moving past the 2nd bolt.

Description 

The guide sums this one up pretty good. A decent warm up, but only because it gets early sun. Sharp for the grade. Ow!


Location 

This is at the end of the main canyon, left of Brown Sugar.


Protection 

Bolts.



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By N. Guimond
May 29, 2007
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

We determined that the whole Brown Sugar wall needs to be renamed to include "sandbagged" in there somewhere. Holy moly, I never thought I'd have to work for 15 minutes to START a 5.10.

By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
May 25, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I have to agree, getting off the ground is tricky as is the friction for the first 2 bolts. Not a destination route but worth doing if you are in the area I guess.

By Robby Cribbs
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 18, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

If you like to boulder, this is for you. All the moves are very bouldery and involve both power and technique. Oh, and yes it's sharp.

By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 5, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I don't agree that this climb is any harder than a 10+ if you climb slab, but...it is sharp and the holds are small. The only thing keeping this at a 10 is the pitch of the rock.

By Brent Butler
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 9, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

If this is a 10, it is by far the stiffest 10 in the canyon. The bulge was the crux for me, not the slab bottom. Maybe it's very height-dependent, but I had to hang on the last bolt. Then I walked over and easily sent Brown Sugar. I agree with the previous comment about this entire wall being sandbagged.

By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
Sep 5, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

That was honestly the hardest 10b I've ever climbed. The beginning is definitely the hardest part of the climb. I would say 10c - 10d at the hardest though. I've also climbed the other 10c's Jewel of the Mild, and Children of a Lesser Grade, and this is by far the hardest. The top is very easy just the bottom is difficult. Maybe just for short people.

By William Mondragon
From: My car
Oct 14, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Hmm. Well this whole wall kinda sucks.

By Sarah McFadden
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2012

Wondering if anyone has noticed if the roof/bulge has broken holds lately? Agree with the above definitely felt hard/iffy, but being a 5'4 climber the roof sequence was IMPOSSIBLE.