|Big Black Face
Awesome, powerful movement up a slab to a quickly steeping face that does not let up until the fat lady sings.
Start by clipping first bolt of Black Sheets of Rain and work your way right. Hot damn this thing is good! Clean rock, lots of fun moves and a killer crux at the top that might have you scratching your head, forcing you to think outside the box.
Think, cool gastone move to cool pinchy sidepulls to a huge reach to a hold that is hidden and out of reach. Enjoy the ride! This crux is not easy to figure out, but super-fun once you get it dialed.
Beginning leaders beware! Think about how you are going to fall at the crux and know where your rope is when you do take the ride. I had an issue with this climb a few years ago but have since gotten over it and now believe it is one of the best routes in the canyon. Deserves the highest star rating and is a must do if you want a challenge that isn't quite 5.11a...but damn close.
Get on this thing! You will not regret it.