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Nautilus
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Unsorted Routes:

Candlestick 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 3,325
Submitted By: Steve Levin on Aug 31, 2001
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Description 

Candlestick takes the straight-in chimney left and below of the Parabolic Slabs overhanging underbelly.

This is another of the 5.7 wide cracks where technique greatly aids in enjoyment and success. The climbing is sustained and the protection is reasonable. By now you should know how to decide which side of our body you want in a given crack, but consider also that often you will need to switch sides mid-way up some wide crack. Having your gear on a gear sling greatly aids in this type of maneuvering. Also, it is often necessary to move around in a wide crack or chimney to best utilize the size and orientation of the crack. Often the more shallow you are the easier the climbing, but this proves counter-intuituve to the leader (who often wants to get as deeply wedged as possible).

In this case, you do a bit of caving to get in deep enough at the top (for a real caving experience try TM Chimney over at the Main Area- a very unique and brilliant chimney climb).


Protection 

Big Stuff. Include a few stoppers for the top.



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By Anonymous Coward
Dec 11, 2001

When you say big stuff...how big are you talking? My partner and I had our Penis gords with us (don't ask why but that's what we call our #6 Friends) and only one got in at the very bottom. Yes I have heard of a big bro...but c'mon. I don't even think a big bro would have gone very well here. I seconded it and I thought it was great...but I don't know if I would say the pro is great on it....

By Erik Corkran
May 28, 2002

Some placements in there for #3 (and probably #4) Big-bro's in there. Pulled out a 4BB at one point and it was too big. #3 was right size but I find them hard to place so finally just burrowed in and up a somewhat long way until I found a crack in the back. It took a small hex, #2 Camalot then opened to #4-4.5 size near the exit. I tunnelled through the small hole at the top. Just wondered which way other people went to exit -- through the hole or out the right side of that wedged block? Fun route.

By John Korfmacher
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 12, 2008

Fun route. Pro is scanty on the lower part--not sure if it's worth bringing the BigBros or not. If you're comfortable in a 5.7 chimney, it's not too big a deal. I thought the somewhat bulgey crux was interesting and worth the effort in the chimney.

By Sean Wolf
From: Denver, CO
Aug 22, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This thing is burly. Too small to be a comfy chimney- I ended up going up cock-eyed to get good leverage with my outside knee. My friend placed a #3 and #4 Big bro, probably would be better with two #4s. Can't say this was "fun", but definitely was an exhausting lesson in skinny chimney climbing. No move was harder than 5.7, but I didn't think it was that secure to stay in the chimney and thus was pretty sustained.

By Drew McLean
From: Colorado
Apr 6, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

I climbed this last summer after my partner talked me into following him up it. I ended up having to finish the lead for him because he did not fit in the chimney once through the start. His larger than average gut was the primary issue. I am super skinny and was able to use some sort of fish like squirming heel toe technique to power through the chimney. There was only a blue big bro. and a tipped out #6 Camalot below me. A fall may require motor oil to get the leader out of this gaping hole.

Great route to practice your chimney technique.

By prod.
From: Boulder, Co
Jul 5, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

Fun climb.