Mountain Project Logo

Canadian Rockies Rack?

Original Post
Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186

I need to replace and add a few small cams to my rack. We have a trip planned to the Canadian Rockies and our main objective is the Greenwood-Jones route on Mt. Temple, I was wondering what size works best in those small lazer cut limestone cracks? The red X4, black or blue alien, purple or gray C3? Are off-sets key, due to the heavy use of pitons in some areas and routes?
-Cheers
Taylor

Steven Kovalenko · · Calgary · Joined May 2014 · Points: 25

Don't bother with offsets. The cracks don't get nailed out. Treat all old pins as sketchy.

Just use your favorite small cam. From a size standpoint, they are all about equal since the crack size is all over the map. Features, range, trigger preference, and ease of placement when run-out above chossy stuff are all more important.

I have climbed here for four years with a full set of Powercams, yellow Mastercam, and orange + red TCU. I add #2 to #4 C4 as necessary. I still screw up the Metolius cam size in our rock on the first try 1/3 - 1/4 of the time. Most folks just use all C4's. The yellow Mastercam is awesome here.

If starting over, I would prefer a mix of C4's and Aliens for the Canadian Rockies. Better range, faster placing, put the gear back on your rack less often. Cam lobes can get funky due to the irregular cracks, and "pods" and minor constrictions below a cam are the most bomber placement.

I like taking tricams. Some folks don't. Pink and red, or pink to purple (four sizes) are useful and common.

And maybe 3-5 pins, which are secure and bomber thin limestone pro. Everything is so chossy in the alpine it doesn't matter. Put the pin in if you feel you need it. All pretty standard gear for longer or adventurous Canadian Rockies routes.

Hans Bauck · · Squamish, BC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 2,099

Bring a bit of everything to 3 inches, heavy on nothing. As Steven said, any small cams are fine. Include a few pitons, mainly knifeblades. Expect to have to run it out a lot.

I would highly recommend double ropes, and unless you specifically know they aren't needed, bring crampons. Be prepared to climb quickly and efficiently to avoid a bivy.

FYI I'm the one who wrote the route description on this site. If you want any more beta, let me know, though that would probably ruin the adventure.

There's a trip report at cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u…

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186

Thanks Hans and Steven, great info! Got some new small X4s at the Colorado Crack Gear sale:) coloradocrackgear.com/
And it sounds like I'll be bringing the pins and bear mace too.

Nice TR Hans, sounds like an adventure!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Canadian Rockies Rack?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started