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Lisa Foster and Paul Kejla on the descent with Bug...

O Canada! 

It would be as difficult to sum up the climbing potential in Canada just as it would be to sum up that in the United States, unless you wanted to use broad terms like LOTS. From sea cliffs to urban crags, high altitude to bouldering, almost every type of climbing is available (except desert sandstone perhaps).

Rather than trying to describe it in this overview, let's describe it area by area and route by route, right here.

Climbing Season



Weather station 33.1 miles from here

4,317 Total Routes

['4 Stars',552],['3 Stars',1521],['2 Stars',1312],['1 Star',506],['Bomb',50]
['<=5.6',258],['5.7',204],['5.8',297],['5.9',363],['5.10',883],['5.11',563],['5.12',329],['5.13',70],['>=5.14',16],['',0],['<=V1',209],['V2-3',426],['V4-5',240],['V6-7',134],['V8-9',84],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',26],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Canada:
West Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Spire
Northwest Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X     Trad, Alpine, 2400'   Selkirk Mountains : Mount Sir Donald
North East Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
Klahanie Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Squamish : Shannon Falls
Skywalker   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 300'   Squamish : Shannon Falls
Diedre   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches   The Chief : The Apron
Snake   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches   The Chief : The Apron
Northeast Buttress   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 25 pitches   Western Chilliwack Range : Mt. Slesse
Penny Lane   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Smoke Bluffs : Penny Lane
Rock On   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   The Chief : The Apron
Flying Circus   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Smoke Bluffs : Neat and Cool
McTech Arete   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Angel's Crest   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 13 pitches   The Chief : The Sheriff's Badge
Beckey-Chouinard   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 2000'   Howser Towers : South Howser Tower
Exasperator   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   The Chief : Grand Wall Base Area
The Grand Wall   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0     Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, 1000'   The Chief : Grand Wall Area
Sunshine Crack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Southeast Face   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 18 pitches, 2000'   The Cirque of the Unclimbab... : Lotus Flower Tower
Freeway   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 11 pitches   The Chief : The Dihedrals
Crime Of The Century   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   The Smoke Bluffs : Penny Lane
Browse More Classics in Canada

Featured Route For Canada
Thriller on the Pillar goes up the cracks on the face of the pillar

Thriller on the Pillar 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  North America : Canada : ... : Olesen Creek Wall
Up cracks on the face of the pillar, making several crack switches to the left. Many 5.9 moves on solid gear... with two or three more technical moves near the top. A full pitch of heads-up, fun climbing....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Canada Slideshow Add Photo
View of Pigeon Spire from the northeast. The West Ridge route follows the right skyline of the spire.
BETA PHOTO: View of Pigeon Spire from the northeast. The West ...
Agawa Canyon
Agawa Canyon
Mother of Pearl
Mother of Pearl
Kokanee Beer.
Kokanee Beer.
Mother of Pearl
Mother of Pearl
Canada!
Canada!
Profile in the Rockies!
Profile in the Rockies!

Comments on Canada Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 13, 2007
Anybody have any info on New Brunswick climbing and/or ice climbing?
By skinner
From: Calgary, AB
Dec 15, 2007
In western Canada, (British Columbia & Alberta) Squamish and the Bugaboos are exceptional- world class destinations. However.. if you are able to get your head around the chossy limestone the makes up the majority of peaks, the infinite number of previously unclimbed lines could keep you occupied for several lifetimes.
By cliff thomas
Apr 15, 2009
I am planning a climbing trip to Banff. Am interested in beta about time of year to go, places to stay on the cheap, moderate climbing and perhaps an opportunity to find partners or good roped solo routes in that area. Thank you
Cliff Thomas
thomasci@msn.com
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Apr 16, 2009
Cliff,

The time of year depends on what you want to do. The summer alpine season (all the classic north face ice routes) are best in August and September. Nice low altitude rock, mostly sport, can be found in the canyons around Canmore: Heart Creek, Cougar Canyon, Grassi Lakes, etc. The season for these is probably May to October. There are many moderate scrambles (Table Mtn., Cascade, Lady MacDonald) and climbs (Ha Ling, Yamnuska, etc.).

There are campgrounds in Banff and Lake Louise, and probably in Canmore. The Alpine Club of Canada's clubhouse is in Canmore and is a great place to stay. I think there are reciprocal agreements with other alpine clubs, or you can buy a membership, which can be worth it if you're staying a while. It's also a good place to meet people.

Hopefully you'll get some more detailed information from others. It has been a while since I've road-tripped there. You might also want to post in the forums.
By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Apr 17, 2009
Joe M sorry I'm a year and a half later but there is actually excellent rock and ice climbing in N-B.
The rock climbing is mostly trad in a wonderful granite setting called Cochrane Lane and the ice is just everywhere!

check out climbeasterncanada.com or beta-source.com/ for pics, info etc.
By curt hegel
Mar 21, 2010
good place for info/beta finding partners, etc. is gravsports-ice.com run by Will Gadd. Ice season is running out, but the alpine/rock is starting soon.
By Matt Allshouse
Sep 13, 2010
I just won two free passes on Canada North Airlines...Anyone know good ice routes around Yellowkife,Norman Wells, or Iqaluit?