Rock and Ice

So... is there just no possibility of rock climbing in this cave (or other dry-tooling areas)? I mean, doesn't the dry-tooling mess up otherwise good rock? I understand the need to practice dry-tooling and mixed climbing but I don't get climbing a route w/o any ice on it using ice tools. What's the deal?

I thought the exact same thing as you did when I saw this. I would like to know what is so wrong with this rock that it cannot be climbed without the use of tools (which I can imagine destroys the rock). Where is the ethic behind dry tooling only?

too cold to climb without gloves on?

Wow, in some of the photos, Rock shoes with Tools, I am so confused?

Let the comments begin:

"Putting the tool in tooling. Shouldn't this be considered aid climbing?"

visualadventures.com/climbing/let-the-dry-tooling-games-begi>>>

it's Ouray.

Did any of you morons(in a playful friendly tone) think to email Jason and ask him? It's as least as difficult as posting this thread.

I was dry tooling this morning when I woke up with morning wood.

If the rock is similar to everything else in Ouray then it's crappy rock that you wouldn't want to free climb anyways, as are most dry tooling areas. I know the photographer. I'll ask him next time I see him but in my experience I'm going to guess that's the reason people feel free to drytool.

So if I am correct they trust the rock enough to bolt it, but not enough to weight it with hands and feet?

also consider the rock type and how it fractures, in my limited experience with dry tooling in Ouray the placements for picks and crampons are far smaller than those used for hand holds and feet, similarly some of the roofs bolted in those pictures in combination with the holds described might make for the first 5.16 so get after it folks i guess.

It'd be like climbing a road cut. You could do it but why. There's places where there can be bolts placed. I'm sure it's a pain to find them though.

When did this "dry tooling" grading start? D11 - seriously? What's the difference between dry tooling and crack jumaring with a cam?

Dry stooling?

a.k.a Shitting all over someone else's area

For me, I drytool in places like Ouray or Vail, to gain experience and confidence for mixed (ice and rock) routes in committing environments (i.e. RMNP in winter). It is a form of aid, but for me, it is a type of aid that is more physically engaging than dangling in aiders. I do both for different reasons. Try it sometime if you want to understand it.
Drytooling definitely scars the rock, but it is worth noting that most drytooling crags are in places with chossy, dirty, and unattractive rock. The chossy nature of the rock produces many seams, cracks, and features that are amendable to crampons and tools. You could probably free climb in these places, but it rarely occurs, because the rock isn't generally enticing to people looking to put up new areas.
I would think that there is enough rock around to allow people to practice sport, trad, aid, drytooling, or whatever, without overly limiting each user group's experience.

I've just spent the last hour in a grueling effort to try, even a little bit, to care. And I have to be completely honest...






















I just don't.

What ever happened to leave no trace? Can someone please explain to me how dry-tooling follows this very simple guideline??
Please, I'm baffled.

And while it breaks my heart to see chalk I've left on a hold while climbing. In no way is that chalk a permanent reminder of my ascent. Remember when clean aid came into practice? Perhaps that's something we could relate this conversation to?

it's a secret

Well at least they did it in some obscure cave and not on something like the Hallucinogen Wall.

@Jeffeos - Leave no trace? Thats funny. I'd say 80% of climbers could care less about the leave no trace ehtic. Look at any popular sport area. The place is covered with chalk, full of bolts, every start is packed out and void of vegitation and there are probably fixed or "project" draws all over the place.