Can Gan Dionis Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 2,250 ft |
GPS: |
41.25911, 0.9395 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 2,283 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, David Riley |
Description
Known mostly for its nice collection of moderate slab climbs, this hidden crag is a nice place to hide from the sun for a few hours during the mid-day heat. Although the approach trail for the popular crags to the East passes directly below the left half of the cliff, the right end is nestled on a cozy platform behind a detached pillar, seemingly worlds apart from the bustle below. A good collection of trees provides some intermittent shade on various routes, and the belay is almost always shady. Although there are routes on this cliff as hard as 7c+ (5.13a), most of the routes are 5.11 or below, slabby, and technical. The solitary exception is the highly-popular "Massa Temps Sense Piano", which climbs a steep arching crack in a dihedral.
In total, there are about 20 routes here, ranging in grade from 5+ (5.10-) to 7c+ (5.13a). Some of the harder lines are obviously drilled. The right end of the crag is pearched on a ledge, so use caution.
In total, there are about 20 routes here, ranging in grade from 5+ (5.10-) to 7c+ (5.13a). Some of the harder lines are obviously drilled. The right end of the crag is pearched on a ledge, so use caution.
Getting There
From the castle parking lot, head East below Melafots for ~100 yds toa small cairn next to a pine tree. A green "T" spray-painted onto a boulder marks the exposed trail that heads directly down the cliff below. Scramble down the cliff, using chipped steps, in a westerly direction, for ~50 feet to a saddle between the main cliff & the large "Rebotat" pinnacle. Turn left at the saddle to head back East, down a steep trail of switchbacks through dense brush. Continue form the saddle for ~50 yds, passing a few steep downclimbs, until the trail arrives at a clearing and a gray slabby cliff. This is Can Gan Dionis.
Classic Climbing Routes at Can Gan Dionis
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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