One of the better 5.5 leads at the Lake: nice moves, good pro, wonderful summit.
On the Southeast side of the Frigate, a crack system heads up between the two summits. From the base, move up a dihedral a little to the right, find some good pro, then move left and up into an alcove. Kick high! Getting into the alcove is probably the technical crux.
In the alcove, get some more bomber gear. Kick high! and pull around the little roof. Head up to the summit on the right (North).
On the Southeast side of the Frigate. "Walk off" (scramble) to the North.
Medium to large nuts, a couple of medium sized hexes or cams.
Nearing the top.
Eric P. leading "Can Can" on the Frigate.
|By Paul Huebner|
From: Portage, WI
Aug 11, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
Another great lead that's easy to protect. After setting pro for up and downward pull before starting off, the 1st piece I use is a #1 tricam (pinky) in a small pocket just before heading off left for the alcove below the slightly, overhanging fist-size crack. Moving up and into the crack (a couple of moves) is the crux of the climb. Down climb is off of the back side of the summit into the large gap between the Frigate and the main bluff (see unnamed walk off). From there a short traverse to north takes you to easy ledges (steps) to get back down to your pack.
Jul 17, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
If you approach this from the northwest side (previous commenter refers to this as the walk-off, for leaders), it is easy enough climbing that you can set up top rope. A threaded sling and a #6 & #10 hex will do. The little roof move is a blast! Don't disturb any frogs when threading!