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Dec 5, 2011
NW Couloir of Mt.Helen in August 2012
I am currently in the process of building my trad rack, and have an oppurunity to purchase a large lot of cams (22 cams) from someone who does not climb anymore. The rack includes: a full set of Rock Empire cams (6 years old) and a set of Metolious power cams (4-5 years old) Metolious tcu's (4-5 years old).

I have climbed with the seller before and know that he takes good care of his gear, so that is not the question. I am just wondering is the normal wear and tear on these units too much to make them not worth the investment. (i.e. I would like them to last me for a good while)

FWIW, it is a very good deal.

Thanks for the help.
daniel arthur
From Auburn,Al
Joined Mar 28, 2007
37 points
Dec 5, 2011
Unless you see some obvious damage, they should be fine to use. However, they are at the age where you should get them re-slinged (re-slung?). That's about five dollars per cam, plus shipping. Most manufacturers only resling their own cams. FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
116 points
Dec 5, 2011
Agree with Frank, However depending on the price including reslinging. you may be close enough to buy a new rack. Also make sure wires and trigger mechanism are in good shape. other wise that more money to rewire them. Topher42
Joined Nov 18, 2010
59 points
Dec 5, 2011
Buenos Dias!
daniel arthur wrote:
I am currently in the process of building my trad rack, and have an oppurunity to purchase a large lot of cams (22 cams) from someone who does not climb anymore. The rack includes: a full set of Rock Empire cams (6 years old) and a set of Metolious power cams (4-5 years old) Metolious tcu's (4-5 years old). I have climbed with the seller before and know that he takes good care of his gear, so that is not the question. I am just wondering is the normal wear and tear on these units too much to make them not worth the investment. (i.e. I would like them to last me for a good while) FWIW, it is a very good deal. Thanks for the help.


Take a look at some of the Rock Empire reviews before you decide to trust your life to someone else's bottom-of-the-barrel cams.

Metolius gear, if you know the seller and he/she can relate its history, would be less of a concern for me personally.
-sp
From East-Coast
Joined May 25, 2007
80 points
Dec 5, 2011
That is a lot of cams, way more than you likely need. Always a danger with these great deals, you end up buying what you don't want or need.

I wouldn't waste my money on the Rock Empires personally. If you're buying a big batch, I wouldn't pay more than $25 each for those metolius cams, more like $15 for those RE things.

Take a look at the lobes. The teeth are a good wear indicator. However, you have to climb a lot and take frequent falls to really wear out cams.

Regarding the slings on those things, 5 years is the manufacturers conservative recommendation of when they should be replaced. If the cams are in good shape and haven't been used that much, the slings will last a long time. I wouldn't worry about reslinging them personally if you know the seller, but others are more conservative than me on that. Most of my cams date to 03 and 04 and still have original slings.
caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Joined Nov 21, 2006
1,898 points
Dec 5, 2011
I agree with the last few posts, Metolius should be fine except for maybe a resling. RE I wouldn't buy even if they were new.

I have many Wild Country friends, rigid and flex that still work fine. if they getreally whacked, I just dump them.
john strand
From southern colo
Joined May 22, 2008
2,259 points
Dec 5, 2011
NW Couloir of Mt.Helen in August 2012
Thanks guys. I think for sure it is way more than I need, and the REs are just part of the lot. I have read mixed reviews on them and so I am not sure if I will keep them or not. My initial plans are to take from it what I want/need then sell off the rest of it to try and recover as much of my money as possible. Thanks for your input!
daniel arthur
From Auburn,Al
Joined Mar 28, 2007
37 points
Feb 8, 2012
the glorious pitch 7
If its a good deal go for it. I ran into a old timer a couple years ago who was still climbing with a pre-manufactred friend on his rack. brian hess
From Logan, Utah
Joined Jan 13, 2009
400 points
Apr 14, 2012
I've got access to a good number of old cams through my work at a college. Trad climbing was phased out of the program a while back and the gear left over has not been used for years. They are mostly first and I think second generation BD C4s so they are pushing 20 years old right?

Also, to extend them (no slings on them of course) is a quickdraw cool? or is a sling safer?
Stephen Ackley
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Apr 21, 2011
583 points
Apr 14, 2012
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH
Stephen, BD "C4s" are the newest model with the wire thumb loop and double sling around the thumb look. Pre C4 models have the solid metal thumb brace, and the Camalots before that are dual-stem with a wire thumb loop, which are the oldest, these would be the ones that are between 10 and 20 years old I think.

Anything with a sling can be re-slung at Wired Bliss..I think they do any type of cam for a decent price. After 5 years or so this would not be a bad idea, and if you do the whole lot at once, it probably won't be a big deal to ship them.
Brendan Blanchard
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2010
309 points


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