Camping Under the Influence 5.12-
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| Type: | Trad, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | ??? |
| Season: | south-facing |
| Submitted By: | camhead on Mar 7, 2007 |
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Samson keeping watch in front of "Camping under th...
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Description This climb starts up a deeply set crack on the right of the pillar, and then makes a cool transition to the left of the pillar about thirty feet up, or wherever you feel like it. Most of the rest of the route is a cool finger crack with plenty of feet and stances. Finally, the last twenty feet the crack gets off-fingers, offset, the feet disappear, and it leans to the right. This is the crux. Like Annunaki or Sweden Ringle, the crux of this route is clipping the anchors.
Location to the right, and around the corner from T-Bones/Tubesteaks area. twin splitters on either side of a pillar, up to a steep and eventually right leaning finger crack.
Protection (camalot sizes) three .4, four .5, four .75, three 1, two 2. Maybe a runner or two for the transition around the starting pillar.
| Comments on Camping Under the Influence |
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By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Jan 13, 2009
rating: 5.11+
| This thing was originally rated 5.11+ and that was with boxy shoes and heavy cams. |
By D-Storm
Apr 25, 2011
rating: 5.12-
| Ignore the chains when they're dangling in your face! It's harder to clip them there than it is to bust out two more moves and reach the crispy jug just above. |
By Alex Shainman
From: Portland, OR
Oct 26, 2011
| ...funny, on my onsight go I saw that crispy jug and I went for it. A nice whipper later, said jug is now mostly powder on the ground. Since ropes are now longer than in the Bandito days of old, I'd vote for the anchor to be moved up a few feet to facilitate a more natural ending. If cleaned only a little, the flake above would be plenty clean and the finish will have better continuity. Great route! |
By Wylie
From: Hell, MI
Apr 23, 2013
rating: 5.12-
| This climb is awesome, but the randomness of the anchor placement detracts from the climb for me. Climbs that have the hardest move clipping the anchor just because the bolts are placed there seems contrived. |
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