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2nd Meat Wall
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At Your Cervix T 
Bacon in the Sun T 
Boss Hog T 
Camping Under the Influence T 
Carnivore T 
Cube Steaks T 
End Of The Line T 
Evening Ecstacy T 
Extra Lean T 
Family Home Night T 
Gouge On It T 
Green Eggs & Ham T 
Hot Pork Sundae T 
Humble Pie T 
Idaho Flake T 
Low Cholesterol T 
Meat Machine T 
Meat ya later T 
Meating Jesus T 
Mouse Meat T 
Nerve Damage T 
Ninja Bedwetter T 
Pastafarian, The T 
Pleased To Meat You T 
Potato, The T 
Samarai Loving T 
Sesh One Cooking T 
Smell the Meat T 
Swedish meat balls T 
Sweet Meats T 
Switch, The T 
T-Bones Tonight T 
Tofu Crack T 
Top Sirloin T 
Tube Steaks Tomorrow T 
Two Timer T 
Two Timer II T,TR 
Unknown long corner T 
Unknown R of Tube Steaks T 
Unknown wideness to RF tight hands flake T 
Unnamed blocky corner to hands splitter T 

Camping Under the Influence 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ???
Season: south-facing
Page Views: 2,548
Submitted By: camhead on Mar 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Description 

This climb starts up a deeply set crack on the right of the pillar, and then makes a cool transition to the left of the pillar about thirty feet up, or wherever you feel like it. Most of the rest of the route is a cool finger crack with plenty of feet and stances. Finally, the last twenty feet the crack gets off-fingers, offset, the feet disappear, and it leans to the right. This is the crux. Like Annunaki or Sweden Ringle, the crux of this route is clipping the anchors.

Location 

to the right, and around the corner from T-Bones/Tubesteaks area. twin splitters on either side of a pillar, up to a steep and eventually right leaning finger crack.

Protection 

(camalot sizes) three .4, four .5, four .75, three 1, two 2. Maybe a runner or two for the transition around the starting pillar.


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By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Jan 13, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

This thing was originally rated 5.11+ and that was with boxy shoes and heavy cams.
By D-Storm
Apr 25, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Ignore the chains when they're dangling in your face! It's harder to clip them there than it is to bust out two more moves and reach the crispy jug just above.
By Alex Shainman
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 26, 2011

...funny, on my onsight go I saw that crispy jug and I went for it. A nice whipper later, said jug is now mostly powder on the ground. Since ropes are now longer than in the Bandito days of old, I'd vote for the anchor to be moved up a few feet to facilitate a more natural ending. If cleaned only a little, the flake above would be plenty clean and the finish will have better continuity. Great route!