Aka Can Piqui Pugui, "Campi" is Siurana's premiere cliff, and is counted among the most legendary sport climbing venues in Europe. There are currently ~45 routes at Campi, and grades range from 6b+ (5.11a) to 8c+ (5.14c), with most routes checking in from 5.12b to 5.14a. The main attraction is the tall, beautiful, orange, blue, white, & black streaked wall at the center of the cliff, which provides consistently overhanging sinker pocket pulling to a steep bulge where most cruxes are encountered. This leaning wall hosts many notorious lines such as the technical opus "Siouxie" (7c+/5.13a), Siurana's signature route "Anabolica" (8a/5.13b), the Toni Arbones masterpiece "Mr. Cheki" (8b+/5.14a), which was featured in the hit "Masters of Stone", and "L'Odi Social", (8c+/5.14c), currently the crags hardest line and reportedly one of the best.
Not to be ignored, the 30 or so routes that flank this wall to either side provide numerous challenging masterpieces, and grades for climbers of all abilities. The just-over-vertical routes that begin from a small ledge on the left end of the cliff offer classic technical edging challenges on perfect rock. Must-do lines include popular classics "Delicatessen" (7a+/5.12a) and "Treste Pesadilla" (7b+/5.12c).
Just right of center is a steep bulge with several hard power lines including a pair of 7c+'s among Siurana's best, "Eixugame-la i tornem-hi" & "Tanoka". Don't miss the beautiful orange panel of "Toca-me-la Sam" (6c+/5.11c) a few feet left of "Eixugame...."
Power junkies will want to head straight to the high ledge at the right end of Campi, which features several excellent, short pocket problems, such as the classic and hard 7b+'s "Rodriguez Y Rodriguez" and "Terrorisme Autoritzat".
Although this cliffband faces almost due South, the concave curvature of the cliffline provides shade for the left end of the cliff beginning at around 2pm. The shade line slowly works its way right, although the routes at the far right end won't receive shade until near sunset. Many of the routes here begin from exposed ledges &/or have high first bolts, so a stick clip is highly recommended.
There are two ways to approach this cliff. Both routes require a bit of scrambling and a fair amount of hiking through dense brush, but the long way is clearly easier & less stressful. First timers are advised to hike in the long way, as its easier to follow the short way when heading back to the parking lot.
The Long Way: From the southeast corner of the parking lot, follow the excellent flat trail near the edge of the cliff, heading east, below the yellow cliffs of Melafots, L'Isabel, Can Burdel & La Trona. Just after the trail passes directly below a jutting horizontal roof with some old aid bolts, the trail begins to descend along steep switchbacks. Can Marges Upper is the gray pocketed just East of the switchbacks, sitting a bit below the rest of the cliffline. COntinue down the switchbacks another 30 seconds or so, to a climber's trail that breaks off right. Follow the right fork to the West to arrive at Marges Lower in about 15 seconds. At the left end of this cliff is a greasy polished ledge, directly belo the route "Extremoduro". Scramble onto this ledge, then traverse left (West), around the corner & thru the shrubs. After a short distance the trail turns another corner and Campi is visible thru the trees.
The Short Way: From the castle parking lot, head East below Melafots for ~100 yds to a small cairn next to a pine tree. A green "T" spray-painted onto a boulder marks the exposed trail that heads directly down the cliff below. Scramble down the cliff, using chipped steps, in a westerly direction, for ~50 feet to a saddle between the main cliff & the large "Rebotat" pinnacle. Turn left at the saddle to head back East, down a steep trail of switchbacks through dense brush. Continue form the saddle for ~50 yds, passing a few steep downclimbs, until the trail arrives at a clearing and a gray slabby cliff. Make a right, following the trail south down the hill. Do some more downclimbing, then keep left to avoid traversing below the Rebotat pinnacle. Eventually a vegetated plateau is reached below the Ca La Boja cliff. This cliff has a number of fixed ropes running up to a narrow ledge 10 feet up. Head East along the plateau, following various winding paths, for about 5 minutes to the cliff.
Cleptomania is an excellent, sustained, technical wall climb, with several cruxes split by rests, but none so good that they diminish the endurance element. The rock is rather sharp, but on the other hand, its relatively un-polished.Boulder up to the dangerously high first bolt. Follow a vertical seam to a horizontal break, & make balancey moves to reach the diagonal rail. Work up the rail to slopey pockets and a shake. Move back left & up, via thin, sharp crimps and a sinker pocket, to an a...[more]Browse More Classics in International