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Banana Peel S 
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Campground Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,918
Submitted By: jason malczyk on Aug 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Jonathan's first free solo

Description 

Wandering crack of varying sizes. Also the face to the left of the climb can be top roped.

Location 

Located in the middle of the Williams Bottom campground.

Protection 

#0.75 to #4 Camalots. There is only a one-bolt anchor with a rap ring on it. You can walk off the route.


Photos of Campground Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Right side crack from the bottom
BETA PHOTO: Right side crack from the bottom
Picture of "Campground Crack" (the crack on the right-hand side of the photo), as seen from the Williams Bottom Campground.  The climb is located to the right of Campsite # 8.
BETA PHOTO: Picture of "Campground Crack" (the crack on the ri...
Jonathan belay from above & Jimmy hangin taking snapshots
Jonathan belay from above & Jimmy hangin taking sn...
Top rope climb up Campground Crack.
Top rope climb up Campground Crack.

Comments on Campground Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jonathan Amburgey
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 19, 2009

Beta: As of Jan. 18th 2009, the crack has one bolt with a rappel ring a few feet below the summit. On top, there are 3 bolts (in a triangular pattern) for setting up a top-rope, though they are located on the back side away from the face. To set up a tope-rope with these, you need to extend the TR onto the edge (approximately 12 feet or so from the bolts), or use the single bolt with a rappel ring. Be aware there will be rope drag if using the top anchors (i.e., the 3 bolts) without sufficient extension to the edge, and there are rope groves everywhere on top from past TR's (not to mention unsightly graffiti). The rock is very soft and sandy on top, and given the wavyness of the upper section, the rope can become lodged in the crack (as my partner and I discovered despite extending the TR - we opted to use the 3 bolts rather than the single for added safety).

By John Braun
From: Hendersonville, NC
Apr 17, 2011

The bolts are, as noted above, about 12ft from the edge. It is basically impossible to toprope the route due to rope grooves unless you extend the master point. This requires ~80ft of cord if you're doing it the conventional way.

Fun climb, though.
By Cody Drool
From: BEAVERTON, OR
May 21, 2011

There is a bolt next to a ledge near the top where we top belayed from to lessen the rope friction. Tricky to belay but was a fun interesting climb. This was also my friends first free solo!
By Ryan N
From: San Louis Obispo
Oct 13, 2012

Great route that's away from the crowds on potash and in the shade for most of the day. Not to be missed when climbing on potash. Anchors are probably 15ft from climbs edge. If TR, which I wouldn't recommend, bring lots of material to extend anchor.