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Campfire under Anorexic Roof
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By dlsask
From Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 17, 2011
Within the past two weeks someone had a campfire underneath the Anorexic roof at Priest Draw. Now the entire exit of Anorexic, and a good portion of the rest of the roof is covered in soot. The route is still climbable, and Carnivore and Carnivore Direct are mostly untouched by the soot, but this is still an incredibly inconsiderate act. It's possible that it is not a climber at fault, but in any case we should spread the word and let people know that this happened and it is not okay. I know 99% of people have the common sense to know better, but we need to let people know to: NOT LIGHT ANY FIRES UNDER OR NEAR BOULDERS! and ONLY USE DESIGNATED AREAS IN CAMPSITES!

If anyone is planning on heading to the Draw in the near future, bring a big brush and give the Anorexic Roof a courtesy scrub. I know a lot of people have tried to clean it already. Let's keep the classics classic.

FLAG
By Red
From Arizona
Oct 17, 2011
Cobra Kai
WOW! Shaking my head...

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By Jeff Ludwig
From phoenix, Az
Oct 17, 2011
Unfortunate for sure. Its almost like vandalism but was probably just uninformed nature lovers. Back in olden times sheepherders would camp out under the horizontal roofs around the Draw. The soot from their campfires was permanently abosrbed into the stone.

FLAG
By TBag
Oct 21, 2011
I agree.

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By Mark S
Oct 21, 2011
team
Me too. Darn kids.

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By Jimbo
Oct 21, 2011
Ya the fact that some climbers decided to climb on this boulder makes it off limits to any other use. Don't these fire starters know bouldering is sacrosanct and takes precedence over any other use of a rock!
Here's a historical tidbit guys, Indians, trappers, and backpackers were lighting fires underneath boulders to stay warm and stay out of the rain long before you showed up with your mattresses and boom boxes.
Whats more unsightly or more damaging, a line of soot or crossing lines of chalk and obliterated pad trampled undergrowth?

You all might want to tone down the egocentric rant a bit.
Just saying.

FLAG
By Yarp
Oct 21, 2011
Jimbo wrote:
Ya the fact that some climbers decided to climb on this boulder makes it off limits to any other use. Don't these fire starters know bouldering is sacrosanct and takes precedence over any other use of a rock! Here's a historical tidbit guys, Indians, trappers, and backpackers were lighting fires underneath boulders to stay warm and stay out of the rain long before you showed up with your mattresses and boom boxes. Whats more unsightly or more damaging, a line of soot or crossing lines of chalk and obliterated pad trampled undergrowth? You all might want to tone down the egocentric rant a bit. Just saying.


This is the most sensible post I've read on MP in a very long time.

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By Umph!
Oct 21, 2011
Wow. . . good stuff.
I really like the comment on how the "stone" had "permanently absorbed" this soot.

And by all means, +1 to Jimbo.

FLAG
 
By Benjamin Chapman
From Small Town, USA
Oct 22, 2011
old 1/4" bolt.
Since when did climbing/bouldering take precedent over all other uses of the rock in Priest Draw? I'm certain that holds coated with chalk and the areas around the base of rocks/boulders trampled and denuded of vegetation is equally unsightly to others who use the area. Don't be so egocentric!!

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By Eric D
From Gnarnia
Oct 22, 2011
Born again on the last move of the Red Dihedral, high Sierras.
Dlsask - the vast majority of people that climb at the draw would probably agree. I wouldnt worry too much about highly-opinionated people that don't live near by.

Man, there has been a lot of strong opinions lately on local issues from people that are not very familiar with the areas being discussed.

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By Ben Beard
From Superior, AZ
Oct 22, 2011
roo, my only son, the stare that takes down a herd of 'stock
WildernessRespect wrote:
Are you trying to tell climbers not to use camp fires there and where to camp? Wasting your time about something that most likely did not involve a climber.


He specifically said "we need to tell people". He did not say climbers.

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By dlsask
From Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 22, 2011
Before this gets terribly out of hand, and way off topic I would like to reiterate the primary point. Please don't light fires underneath the roofs at Priest Draw. I am not trying to infringe on anyone's rights and freedoms, and you're right there are no laws that I'm aware of that state that you can't light fires under the roofs. However, all I'm asking for is a little consideration of other people, and again, climbers were probably not even at fault. Just spread the word is all.

By the way there are plenty of roofs at the Draw that no one climbs in and are completely suitable for shelter if that's why you're hanging out there. Which I can understand, it's a beautiful place. However, there is a designated campsite so I don't think the forest service likes people posting up under a roof overnight. Not a big deal.


If the folks commenting have something personal against boulderers, I don't know what to tell you. I am definitely not trying to say that bouldering is better or worse than other types of climbing, or "other uses" for the rock (although I'm not exactly sure what that means). I love it all, and I think climbers are great people. I'm just looking to have a good time on some great routes, and ensure that others can have the same experience.

P.S. Jimbo: for more info on cliff dwellings, which I agree is interesting, but a bit outside the scope of this discussion, you should tour Walnut Creek Canyon. Really fascinating, and worth the time. By the way, I don't like boom boxes at the crag either.

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By Jimbo
Oct 22, 2011
dlsask,
I'm not anti bouldering. I just wanted people to realize that our beloved sport is not the end all be all that we sometimes think it is. There are actually other things to do with and around rocks of any size that isn't climbing.
Your almost religious indignation about someone starting a fire under a boulder in the woods seemed to me to need a bit of temperance.

I used to climb at a nifty little crag that was also used as a target for high powered rifles. Even then I really didn't think I had the right to bitch. Shooting big guns at rocks in the forest is not illegal.
Actually we did end up using some of the bullet holes as sloper footholds and hand holds on subsequent routes.

Now if it was, in fact, some climbers with a beef about boulderers then I wholly agree the fire was very bad form indeed.

P.S. Eric I have spent a few days at Priest Draw in years gone buy. So I am familiar with the area.

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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Oct 23, 2011
Colonel Mustard
Eric D wrote:
Man, there has been a lot of strong opinions lately on local issues from people that are not very familiar with the areas being discussed.


Opinions are like assholes, man. Everybody's got one and usually there's a hot wheel car lodged in it... Wait. That's just me? Shit.

FLAG
By Orphaned
Oct 24, 2011
Sport climb at The 5 Mile Draw, North eastern AZ. All the white dots on the rock are bullet holes or scars.
Sport climb at The 5 Mile Draw, North eastern AZ. All the white dots on the rock are bullet holes or scars.

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By Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Oct 24, 2011
Mathematical!
I think this topic could use a few more posts with the word "egocentric" in it.

FLAG
 
By JPVallone
Oct 24, 2011
egocentric

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By MojoMonkey
Oct 24, 2011
Careful lighting fires under rocks - part may fall off

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By JacobD
From Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 24, 2011
Me on Half Dome Boulder, Middle Finger of Fury <br /> <br />Awesome problem!
This sucks! This is a great reason why the NACC has to re-energize and re-engage the local climbing community in coming together to educate and promote local ethics in all Flagstaff climbing areas.

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By dlsask
From Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 24, 2011
Andrew, that's a huge bummer man. I'm sorry to see that sort of thing happening to a pretty cool looking route. Jacob D I'm with you man. How do you think we can make that happen? I'm not familiar with the organization. I'm sure the folks at Vertical Relief would be willing to spread the word as well.

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By Adrian Allred
From Tucson, Arizona
Oct 24, 2011
David Sahalie wrote:
redneck behavior is always stupid and inexcusable. pulling a trigger on a gun or lighting a fire under a roof for 'survival' does not put you on the same level as climbing trash, 4 wheelers, guns, chopping down trees for fun, fire pits with half burned crap... these people also screw their sisters... am i supposed to respect that too?


So since I own a quad and a couple of guns, had a few beers around a fire pit automatically means that I would be screwing my sister if I had one? Define "these people"

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By Adrian Allred
From Tucson, Arizona
Oct 24, 2011
Ah gotcha, I agree with you. It's sad the way some people treat campsites especially if you're quad camping, I was always taught to leave the smallest footprint possible and leave no trace, sadly it looks like these lessons are being lost on some on the newer generation.

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By Ben Beard
From Superior, AZ
Oct 24, 2011
roo, my only son, the stare that takes down a herd of 'stock
Is it still chipping if it's a bullet from a gun?

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By jackson
Oct 24, 2011
shooting guns, driving off road thru the woods and burning shit has been perfectly acceptable behavior in AZ since.....well forever. those of you born and raised in the state should know that already and stop acting all surprised.

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By Adrian Allred
From Tucson, Arizona
Oct 24, 2011
While I'm from NC originally, and not to get all hippy, but it just sucks the way things are going, I can see a definite change from the way things used to be to the way they are now.

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By Eric Hamer
From Tucson
Oct 24, 2011
Aint nothin like a chihuahua with a backpack. Someone's got to carry the beer
I think we are missing the point of this post. When this event happened (fire under the roof) there was no meteorologic events happening. It has not been cold enough to warrant a fire in a cave-like dwelling. For the most we who climb on the rock do not feel as if we own it or have any rights to it. We only feel that we or someone else should be able to climb it again in pristine as conditions as possible. Surviving and just building a fire are two entirely different things.

FLAG


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