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 ADVANCED
Campfire Crag - North Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bonfire S 
Campfire Girl T 
Datura T 
Inferno S 
Klingon Pizza T 
Little Brown Eye T 
Nickel Slots T 
Omega T 
Prejudicial Viewpoint T 
Presupposition T 

Campfire Girl 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Norm Saude & Bob Dominick, 1973, FFA (TR): John Long, 1978, FL: Unknown
Page Views: 2,027
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 9, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Cal Gerberding on "Campfire Girl".
Photo by Blitzo...

Description 

Climb the nicely featured crack which ends about halfway up the face passing a 2 bolt anchor (5.8 to there) and then continue up the thin face above past 3 bolts to a bolted anchor.

Location 

The crack to face just right of Prejudicial Viewpoint.

Protection 

Gear to 1.5", 3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor


Photos of Campfire Girl Slideshow Add Photo
Samantha Goff enjoys the route.  Photo: Mike Morley
Samantha Goff enjoys the route. Photo: Mike Morle...
Jason Simons-Jones making the moves on Campfire Girl.  Photo: Mike Morley
Jason Simons-Jones making the moves on Campfire Gi...
In the shade on the first day of Spring (weather).
In the shade on the first day of Spring (weather).
Campfire Girl area. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Campfire Girl area.
Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Campfire Girl Add Comment
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By Pat W
Feb 23, 2006

Why the R? Is that for the initial section or the upper slab?
By Bob Hayes
Mar 17, 2006

R rating has gotta be for the upper face section. The lower crack will eat up gear.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 25, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The lower section takes plenty of gear, it is definitely NOT "R". A little awkward/balancy at times, but fun climbing. Anchors is two bolts with the fat Metolius rap hangers (i.e. no chain/rings); the second bolt is a little hard to see from the ground because of the angle it's oriented.
By Adam Kimmerly
Mar 27, 2008

Props for pulling it off, but if you can take nine 20-foot wingers off of it and walk away each time, it probably doesn't deserve an R.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Apr 1, 2008

This route is 5.11D if done as intended. After the last bolt which at one time was the only bolt. The route goes up and to the right on thin sightly overhanging face to the belay with no pro! Most commonly the crack sees all the action by most who visit. But for others the crack is just a vehicle to get to the real business the face above. Back in the 80's this route was considered a real test piece here at Indian cove. I think it still is.

Maybe ? My thinking is if you are unable to walk away its X. But I been wrong about these kind things before. I worked on this route off and on for years its pretty run-out. Give it a go ! Tell me what you think ? Thanks for the Props :)
By John Long
Aug 6, 2011

Is the top of this route really only 5.11d? Seemed like 5.12 when we first did it back in the around 1975. But it was super grainy and the old EBs were pretty shitty.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 24, 2011

Good crack. The upper face is fun to the first bolt. The moves around the second bolt are totally baffling and fully grainy. If you can get through that bodylength the stuff at the top is mellow. I'd call that bit 5.12. I'd also say not to bother with it and just do the excellent 5.8 crack to the low anchor.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 27, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great gear, nice climbing and always worth a run on..........to the first anchor. Beyond that, it's been too many years to recall doing the upper section. I remember thinking "one time only".

Bottom crack is friendly and goes at .8 or so. Enjoy!
By KrisK82
Jan 30, 2012

Nut on the right bolt of the lower anchor was really loose on 1/24/12. I hand tightened it, but that was all I could do at the time.
By shelby beardslee
From: 29 Palms, CA
Feb 17, 2012

Tightened the intermediate anchors last weekend.