Climbing at midnight, photo by Chris Fuller
|DNR new landowner; open to foot traffic and climbing MORE INFO >>>|
An imposing, gorgeous pale white boulder speckled with beautiful moss, nestled in shady woods just south of route 2. This boulder has few lines, but what is has will make your hair stand on end. It is absolutely well worth the stop for those on their way through who love highball problems in the v4 and up range.
Something about this boulder makes it loom larger in the mind than the average high ball boulder. It has presence.
The moss grows fairly quickly on it, giving it a Magic Woods kind of feel. My suggestion would be to brush off only the holds necessary to climb the problems, using a non-wire brush. If neglected for long enough, this would require a rappel. Right now, the south face, which holds the best lines, is in pristine condition. Please respect it, and keep it that way.
Negatives to the area are the paucity of problems (4 good problems), the proximity to route 2, and presumably an increased risk of a break-in. Bring valuables with you, or hide them out of sight.
If you are headed east on Route 2, you'll find a large pullout 2.3 miles from the intersection of Reiter road and Route 2. It may be easier to count from Zeke's drive in: it is 1.0 miles from Zeke's Drive In to the pullout, which is on the right side of the road. Hike west along the road for a couple hundred feet, and duck into the forest where you see the massive white boulder. You'll know you're in the right place if you can find the unfortunate "camp serene" grafiti on the west face.
The down-climb is on the east side, and involves 5.3, low angle corner and tree.
Climbing Season For the Gold Bar Boulders area.
Weather station 3.8 miles from here
4 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
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