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 ADVANCED
Camp Bird Road

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
99 Problems T 
Bird Brain Boulevard T 
Cavegina S 
Chock Up Another One T 
Chockstone Chimney T 
Choppo's Chimney T 
Cinnamon and Cider S 
Cleft, The 
Desperado  T 
Dirty Bird 
Dirty Minds T 
Dumpster Diver S 
Fistful of Steel S 
Fractured Fairytales T 
Going Retro S 
Goldline S 
Hairy Devil T 
House/Kennedy Chimney, The T 
Killer Pillar T 
Local Scoop, The S 
M6 Corner T 
M7 Crack T 
Maid to Order S 
Mile 4 S 
Negligent Behavior T 
O'Donnell's Route 
Racing Stripe (Right) T 
Ribbon, The T 
Rusty Cage T 
Senator Gulch T,TR 
Shattered Dreams 
Skillet's Revenge 
Sky is Falling, The S 
Skylight T 
Slip Sliding Away T 
Slippery When Wet T 
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) T 
Talisman, The T 
Tasty Talks T 
Tourist Trap 
Troglodyte S 
Troutman/Rodent, The T 
Wake Up Call T 
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene T 
Weak and the Weary T 
Unsorted Routes:

Camp Bird Road  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.98459, -107.70051 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 199,915
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Malcolm Daly on Nov 30, 1999
Forecast:
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Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>>

Description 

When you get tired of the 100 foots pitches, the gaggle of classes, and all the telephoto lenses in the Uncompaghre Gorge, keep heading up the road to the beautiful lines that surround the Camp Bird Road. There's stuff for everybody here with easy and sunny lines like Chockstone Chimney and Slip Slidin' Away to mega classics like Birdbrain Boulevard. If it's cold you can climb in the sun, if the weather is moderate and your feelin' frisky, head into the shade and try Birdbrain.

L->R: 

Starting looking down Camp Bird Mine Road:

A. Wake Up Call, M5+ R, 5p, 900', gear.
B. Tasty Talks, 8 M5 R, 8p, 1400', gear.

A. Hangover Helper, WI5, 1p, 110'.

Ribbon Area
A. Fall Creek, WI4, 1000'.
B. Out of the Mainstream, WI4-5, 1100'.
C. The Troutman/Rodent, M5 R, 5p, 800', gear.
D. Negligent Behavior, WI5- M6 R? 7p, 1000'.
E. Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard), 10 WI4-5 M6, 8p, 1200', gear.
F. Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene, M5-6 PG-13, 5p, 1000', gear.
G. Desperado , M6, 4p, 800', gear.
H. Rusty Cage, M7 PG-13, 5p, 800', bolts, pins, & gear.
I. The Ribbon, WI4, 4p, 500'.
J. Birdbrain Boulevard, WI5 M5-6, 7p, 1100'.
K. Dirty Minds, 9 M6, 4p, 800', gear.
L. Racing Stripe (Right), WI5 M6, 4p, 800', gear.

Talisman area
M. O'Donnell Route, WI4, 2p, 225'.
N. The Demon, WI6 M7 variation.
ON. Hairy Devil, WI5+ M6-7, 3p, 400', pins, screws, gear.
P. The Talisman, WI6+ M7. 3p, 600'.

P. Camp Bird Mine Pillars, WI4-5, 100'.

Sneffels Creek Canyon Area
A. Scenic Cruise, WI4, 130'.
B. Sneffels Creek Sheet, WI4, 100'.
C. Sneffles Creek Pillar, WI5, 50'.
D. Potosi Peak Couloirs, WI4-5, 1000'.

Skylight area
A? Thin Slice, WI4-5, 2p, 300'.
B? 99 Problems, M5-, 1p, 50', gear.
C. Chockstone Chimney, WI3-4 R, 2p.
above B. Skillet's Revenge, WI4, 1p, 50'.
D. M7 Crack, M7, 1p, 110, gear.
E. Mile 4, M6, 1p, 30', bolts.
F. Weak and the Weary, 8 M5+ R, 2p, 300', gear.
G. Chock Up Another One, WI3-4, 1p, 200'.

H. AC/DC, WI5+ M6, 200'.
I. M6 Corner, WI4+ M6, 2p, 200'.
J. Slippery When Wet, WI4, 1-2p, 100'.
K. Heart of Darkness, WI5, 160'.

L. Slip Slidin' Away, WI4, 2p, 200'.

M. Shattered Dreams, WI5+ M8, 1p, 70'.
N. Fractured Fairytales, M6+, 1p, 100'.
O1. The Sky is Falling, M9+, 1p, 90'.
O2. Tourist Trap, WI4-5 M5, 1p, 80'.

P. Another Climb, WI3-4, 100'.

Q. Chopped Suey, WI5, 160'.
R. Choppo's Chimney, WI4-5, 1p, 190'.
S. Killer Pillar, WI5+ M5+ R, 1p, 160'.

T. Going Retro, M6, 1p, 50'.
U. The Local Scoop, M9, 1p, 50'.
V. The Skylight, WI5 M5, 3p, 300'.

W. Dumpster Diver, M5, 1p, 55'.

X. Maid to Order, M7+, 1p, 60'.
Y. Unknown, M7, .

Z. The Cleft, WI3, 1p, 200'.

AA. Road Warrior aka Duncan's Other Route, WI4-5 M6, 200'.
BB. Sans Nom, WI4 M5, 220'.
CC. Ass in Space, M8, 80'.
DD. Dirty Bird, WI3 M9-, 1p, 110', screws & bolts.

Poser's Lounge
A. Cavegina, M8+, 1p, 60'.
B. Troglodyte, M9, 1p, 100'.
C. Goldline, M10, 1p, 100'.
D. Fistful of Steel, M10, 1p, 100'.
E. Cinammon & Cider, M11, 1p.

F. Senator Gulch, WI3-4, 1p, 100', open!
G. Weekhawken Creek, WI3-5.

Getting There 

Head South from town (Ouray) and turn off onto the Camp Bird Road within 1/2 mile. This road can be death so watch out. Most of the time the county plows it but when the avalanches are booming there's nothing to do but hang out at the Groundskeeper for a third round of 'spro or head to the Gorge. Follow the CB road to where it's usually closed at Senator Gulch. 1/2 mile of hiking up the moderate road will get you to the Skylight area. If you're heading to the Ribbon/Birdbrain area, drop down into the main drainage then contour up to the start of the routes. You did check the avalanche danger, didn't you? They just boom down from the collection basin directly above the Ribbon so if you didn't get recent conditions while in town, it's not a bad idea to hike up the road for a visual. At worst, you'll wast five minutes--at best, you'll save your life.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.4 miles from here

45 Total Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',28],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Camp Bird Road:
Fistful of Steel   M10     Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 100'   
Tourist Trap   WI4+ M5     Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 80'   
Troglodyte   M9     Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 100'   
Chockstone Chimney   WI3-4 R     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   
Goldline   M10     Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 100'   
Skillet's Revenge   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 50'   
The Local Scoop   M7     Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 50'   
Mile 4   M6     Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 30'   
Fractured Fairytales   M6+     Trad, Mixed, 1 pitch, 100'   
Killer Pillar   WI5-6 M5+ R     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch   
Senator Gulch   WI3-4     Trad, TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   
Choppo's Chimney   WI4-5     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 190'   
The Talisman   WI6 M6     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches   
The Ribbon   WI4     Trad, Ice, 4 pitches   
Skylight   WI4+ M4-5     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches   
Slip Sliding Away   WI4-     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 200'   
Racing Stripe (Right)   WI5 M6     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 4 pitches, 800'   
Slippery When Wet   WI4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   
Bird Brain Boulevard   WI5 M6     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 7 pitches   
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard)   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M6 X     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 8 pitches, 1200'   
Browse More Classics in Camp Bird Road

Featured Route For Camp Bird Road
Frank Robertson topping out Attractive Hazard.

Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M6 X  CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Camp Bird Road
Fall 2012Well, here we have another long route to add to the recent explosion of new routing on the walls around The Ribbon as well as downstream. Has it been climbed before? Probably, but the public documentation is nonexistent. At any rate, there is now just barely enough gear that maybe it will get climbed often enough that it will not drift back into obscurity.In 2012 there have been almost a half dozen new routes. This particular route in this local genre of "chossinerring" sho...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Camp Bird Road Slideshow Add Photo
Sunset view of Camp Bird road.
Sunset view of Camp Bird road.
The Talisman in fat conditions.
The Talisman in fat conditions.
Hiking up Camp Bird Road in Ouray, CO.
Hiking up Camp Bird Road in Ouray, CO.
View towards Ouray.
View towards Ouray.
Powder slide from the approach to Choppo's Chimney. March, 2006.
Powder slide from the approach to Choppo's Chimney...
Skylight.
Skylight.

Comments on Camp Bird Road Add Comment
Show which comments
By Malcolm Daly
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 7, 2001
Report from Jim Donini: Skylight is in; first pitch is all ice. Second pitch is thin but do-able. Choppo's is fat. Nothing going on by the Ribbon/Bridalveil.
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 5, 2002
Bill Ducat wrote us to say: "Please remove all references to the conditions of Senator Gulch. My family owns the land, and the climb is closed for liability reasons. Thanks, we are starting to get very annoyed about all the people walking by our "posted" signs, and good condition reports do not help the situation :) Do you have any recommendations on how we could get the word out that we are serious about the falls being closed?"
By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jan 8, 2008
What is the name of the frozen waterfall on the right side of the road, back in the little side drainage,at the base of the switchbacks?
Is it listed here? what's it rated? Seemed like about 90ft tall.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 8, 2008
Scott, I believe you are referring to Senator Gulch. If so, it's on private land. Access has been an issue. Previously, there was a description & the owners requested we delete the information (see above)...even though it is already described in other ice guidebooks.
By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jan 8, 2008
Thanks Leo, maybe I should leave this question up here because I wasn't certain what "Senator Gulch" was in the previous comments. We used to call that Hidden Falls, along with the plethora of "Hidden Falls" on the planet.
By Doug Redosh
Feb 8, 2008
By "town" in the description, I assume this means Ouray?
By erik rieger
From: Gold Hill, CO
Feb 26, 2013
Some (new) potential access issues are brewing up the road with the mine.

Keep a closer eye on your gear when leaving it at the base of a route than you might have in the past. Someone took our packs (which were tucked away well off the road) and filled them to the brim with snow while we climbed Skylight, soaking my partners camera gear. We were the only climbers in the area all day (though many trucks went back and forth from the mine), meaning someone went out of their way. I believe this was the second day after the "new" sign had been erected.
By doligo
Mar 2, 2013
+1 what Erik said, please read the Watch article cited above. Please yield to the traffic and please do not park right in front of the "Road Closed" gate, but rather park in the designated parking pullout on the left.