|By VaGenius |
May 24, 2012
Old ass thread, but I was looking for info on offset tcus and found this, had to put in my three cents.
The smallest three ballnuts (blue, red, gold) are an indispensable part of my hard free climbing rack. I've whipped on every one of them multiple times, they are all in good shape and never pulled one in a fall. Learned to use them on "eyebrows" back east at Looking Glass, where usually only TCUs (this was before C3s) and tricams would keep you from starting to Elvis. They let you sew up R-rated routes, my buddy took at least six consecutive lead falls on a single, un-backed up #1 ballnut on Mazatlan (Red Rocks .10D R, Anderson-Grandstaff, '78) on the smeary crux-worked like a charm. No RP options, just clean parallel, and tiny.
Worth the money. I place them more than my offset wires by a factor of 100. The upper sizes are awkward and seem to fit holes/sound pockets better, I wouldn't bother with them for traditional climbs.