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Crimping at the 2nd bolt great belay Joe!
Start with slab but good edges, throw for the big rail, dance your way up onto said rail and reeeeeach for your next holds. Traverse out right and then sail upward into the chimney-like feature.
3 bolts, but you'll want pro for the top part, .75-2" if you are leading it.
BETA PHOTO: Jake Nicholl on Camel with Saul Jaspan belaying
BETA PHOTO: From left to right, (1) Lost Luggage, (2) Humps, (...
Small edges before the traverse...
"The Traverse" the crux?
Photo Copyright Victoria ...
Traversing below the 3rd bolt
Photo Copyright Vict...
|By Chris Nosti|
Jan 22, 2004
This is as classic as you can get for Bishop's Peak, whether thats a good thing or not. Anyway, the first two bolts are straight forward enough but you need to search for the two edges up high that will alloy you to traverse up and right after the second bolt. Then, once you have clipped that third bolt, it's pretty much smooth sailing on up through the groove. I usually bring a number one camalot and a red alien to protect the rest of the climb. And if you don't feel like leading you can always walk around the back and set up the top rope (it's the first set of anchors you will find).
|By Jad Josey|
Jan 29, 2004
This is definitely one of the best routes on Cracked Wall. A test-piece lead for aspiring 5.10 leaders. You should be confident at the grade, as there is some serious bad-fall potential above the second bolt. Look for hidden (but positive) edges above the second bolt. After the third clip from a good stance, grab the strange hold and go (I often find myself readjusting on the hold, but believe me: it doesn't get miraculously better). The top is a bit run-out, but very easy. A medium cam is great to protect. Enjoy one of the best climbs in the area.
|By Scott Bullock|
Feb 12, 2004
This is a great climb top rope or leading. It is actually an easier climb leading because the rope pulls you to the right when top roping. The second and third bolts are about 10-12 feet apart so when clipping the third bolt your waist is about 7 feet above the 2nd bolt so you are looking at a 14 foot fall if you pitch while clipping. However you are more likely to fall on the traverse while only 2-3 feet above the 2nd bolt. In either event you will not even come close to the ground so it is a safe fall. Put it this way if you can get to the third bolt you are not going to fall.
The crux is climbing into the trough above the third bolt, the holds are odd and the feet are thin. Everybody works out their own sus here.
|By vincent lopez|
Sep 18, 2005
Superb route !! completely safe but scary none-the-less after the second bolt . bring a red alien for protecting the rest of the route above the third bolt.... very nice i can't wait to show my friends from L.A. who say that there must be no decent climbing north of Santa Barbara ....
|By Floyd Hayes|
Mar 18, 2013
5.10b?!? Yeah, right. I tried leading it onsight and gave up after a couple of whippers, then I top-roped it. Okay, I wasn't in the best of shape at the time, but it was a lot harder than I expected for 5.10b. And why were the bolts placed so far to the right? With the rope extending down and out below the first bolt, when you fall and pendulum to the right it's easy to flip backward over it--as I did.