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Camden Hills

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Barretts Cove Cliff 
Guide's Wall 
Mt. Battie 
Ocean Lookout 
Ocean Lookout/ Upper megunticook cliffs 
Rampart, The 
the out back 
Verticals, The 
Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Camden Hills  


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Location: 44.2471, -69.0874 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 39,348
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matty Zane on Jun 1, 2008
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Description 

The Camden Hills, on the west shore of the Penobscot bay, near Camden, Maine, have a variety of rock and ice climbing on a half-dozen small cliffs. While no Camden climbs are very long, some are of high quality. In particular, some of the ice climbs here are exceptional.

The Camden hills are composed mainly of metamorphosed rock that can vary wildly in appearance.

Gear: A standard Camden rack for the trad routes ranges from mirco-nuts, to a 3.5" Friend. Most areas take mainly small gear. It should be kept in mind that while the majority of the climbs in Camden are not extremely difficult, finding adequate protection can be. Many of the climbs have substantial run-outs, so it is best to be solid at the grade before leading the climb.

Getting There 

All of the Crags can be reached from pull-offs off of Route 52. The approaches range anywhere from 2 minutes to 1/2 hr.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.6 miles from here

83 Total Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',37],['2 Stars',32],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',14],['5.8',7],['5.9',11],['5.10',14],['5.11',13],['5.12',13],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Camden Hills:
Tower Gully    WI1     Ice, 300'   Mt. Battie
Old Spice   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Barretts Cove Cliff
funny farm   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 40'   the out back
Charlotte's Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Barretts Cove Cliff
Madam Butterfly   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Guide's Wall
Harmonic Convergence   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Barretts Cove Cliff
Glory Hole   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 60'   the out back
The Million Muppet March   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Guide's Wall
The Bolt Ladder   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 60'   The Verticals
Diagonal Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 60'   The Verticals
Old Stud   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Barretts Cove Cliff
birds eye (aka- FB)   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   the out back
Dream Weaver   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 80'   The Rampart
voluntary madness   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 60'   the out back
Browse More Classics in Camden Hills

Featured Route For Camden Hills
Million Muppet March

The Million Muppet March 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  ME : Camden Hills : Guide's Wall
Start up a thin vertical crack system (optional gear placements), then climb straight up through an overhanging bulge on big holds. Continue up a slab (more optional gear placements) to an anchor set in the overhang at the top of the cliff. Probably the best route on the Guide's Wall....[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

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