The Camden Hills, on the west shore of the Penobscot bay, near Camden, Maine, have a variety of rock and ice climbing on a half-dozen small cliffs. While no Camden climbs are very long, some are of high quality. In particular, some of the ice climbs here are exceptional.
The Camden hills are composed mainly of metamorphosed rock that can vary wildly in appearance.
Gear: A standard Camden rack for the trad routes ranges from mirco-nuts, to a 3.5" Friend. Most areas take mainly small gear. It should be kept in mind that while the majority of the climbs in Camden are not extremely difficult, finding adequate protection can be. Many of the climbs have substantial run-outs, so it is best to be solid at the grade before leading the climb.
All of the Crags can be reached from pull-offs off of Route 52. The approaches range anywhere from 2 minutes to 1/2 hr.
be ready to work right off the ground! You will traverse right to the anchors of borderline after the 5th bolt end here for 12d or continue back up left to high anchor for 13a.there is a direct finish in the works that should ring in around 13c or d....[more]Browse More Classics in ME