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Cambrian Grey 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Laycock
Page Views: 1,142
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 3, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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BETA PHOTO: 10 Cambrian Grey 5.10c 12 Looking For A Legacy 5.9

Description 

Grey limestone or grey beards? Cambrian Grey climbs up solid, limestone edges to a point below the roofs and it is the second climb you encounter after crossing the stream. A good, well-protected route.

Protection 

8 bolts and chains.

Location 

The right-most line on the main face.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 27, 2014
By Jason Billings
From: Draper, UT
Jul 17, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I felt this climb was very difficult for the rating.
By Lee Jensen
Aug 2, 2005

Great little crimpy moves up this limestone face. The route never gets overhung and so it is more balance than anything.

There has been a second pitch added above this one. Do a hanging belay off the first pitch anchors and go for it. There are a couple 5.10 moves, but overall much easier than the first pitch.

The second pitch has well spaced bolts and a double chain anchor.
By tenesmus
Apr 18, 2006

one of my first .10's and maybe my 5th lead.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
May 18, 2007

I put up the second pitch with my friend Tristan before he left for his mission to Russia. I always wanted to drill a few more bolts above the big roof. We thought that the bolts up to the roof were fine. We didn't plan to run it out so much but the climbing was easy and we ran out of hangers. The slab was longer than it looked from the ground. If someone gets there before I get back I don't care if they add two bolts in the blank spaces up high.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
May 18, 2007

The second pitch is pretty darn fun. But it needs some more traffic. The big roof and upper slab is a little dirty. More ascents will clean this up.
By Jeff Jones
From: Elk Ridge, UT
Jul 3, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Finally!! This is another route I swore I would never get back on after I sent it. Well, I am beginning to realize that the climbs are always more fun when you finally get them. Small, crimpy, and balancy. I thought the crux was getting to the last bolt below the chains. There is a bomber hold there but getting to it is tricky and you have to really trust your feet. I think this is a good route for gauging where you are with your footwork. Now I can look with fondness at the scar this route left me when I tried it a couple of years ago.
By Tom Caldwell
From: Alpine, UT
May 30, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The first limestone route in Rock Canyon. Still one of the best.
By Alma Madsen
From: Lehi, UT
Jun 2, 2010

I agree. A good one to test your footwork.
By Tyler McBabe
From: SpanishFork, UT
Jun 1, 2012

I agree with Jason Billings on that. But .10d or .10c it's an AMAZING route. It was pretty intense as far as footwork goes. It also felt like a few holds may have broken off but that could just be me being weird.
By Tim Moore
May 14, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Very crimpy very balancy especially after the first few bolts. Well bolted though. A little bit of a high first bolt. This will test your foot work and use of crimps. The holds are their they are just deceiving and hard to find. Good belay spot on a rock in the shade. Beautiful view as well. Great route. The second pitch is awesome as well. Highly recommend it especially for those who love climbing over roofs.
By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 27, 2014

A really good route; maybe a bit stiff for the grade if you're not comfortable with technical slab. Perfect rock.