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Cambell Saddle Wedges
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By Tom Hanson
Nov 2, 2006
Climber Drawing
Does anyone remember Campbell (or Cambell) Saddle Wedges?
From my experience, they were the very best stopper type nuts ever sold.
They were available back in the early to mid-eightes.
They were anodized with colors ranging from dark red in the smallest size to silver in the largest size (dark red, medium red, orange, yellow, gold, etc).
How come no manufacturers have purchased the patent and reproduced them?
The only down side to Saddle Wedges was that they stuck so well they were often hard to remove.
I've only got a few of them left and I would like to have a full set.
Can anyone tell me who made them, why they are no longer made, and how I might be able to get my hands on a full set?

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By Healyje
Nov 3, 2006
girl40
They were and are great nuts and they go by on ebay fairly regularly. They don't hold a candle to HB Aluminum Offsets - but they don't make those any more either (a set just went for $106 on ebay)...

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By Tim McCabe
Nov 3, 2006
I can vaguely remember climbing with someone who had them once back in the day (as the kids would say). I thought the idea was good but that they felt sticky. Too sticky for they’re own good, nuts get stuck enough I wasn’t interested in them. Perhaps that is why they never caught on and no one else is making any thing similar. Just my $00.02.

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By D Winger
Nov 3, 2006
A labor of love -- our favorite Joshua Tree climbs...
Tom Hanson wrote:
Does anyone remember Campbell (or Cambell) Saddle Wedges?

We still have 3 of them (larger sizes), and recently re-slung them for the Nth time. Love 'em! When you find a placement for one of these babies, you KNOW you've got a bomber piece in.

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By flynn
Nov 3, 2006
I used to sell these when I worked at Forrest Mountaineering (do I win the back-in-the-day contest? :) ). A half-out-of-the-crack #4 SaddleWedge caught a buddy of mine in a 40-footer off the south face of the Matron, so I'm still a fan. (A nearly-complete set still hangs in our gear room.) Yeah, they stuck, but only if you really yanked on them. And you could feel better about a half-!%@ed Campbell than you could about anything else.

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By George Bell
From Boulder, CO
Nov 3, 2006
Hip trouble ...
I've got about 6. They have an slot down the middle that locks onto bumps in the rock, they can be totally bomber but also hard to remove. I guess I should resling 'em as the perlon they are on is way old.

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By jim ongena
Aug 24, 2012
If anyone has a few of those old campbell saddlewedges for sale please let me know.

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By Gunkiemike
Aug 24, 2012
I have a #3 I could be persuaded to part with for a decent price.

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By Benjamin Chapman
From Small Town, USA
Aug 24, 2012
old 1/4" bolt.
Campbell Saddle Wedges and HB Offsets WERE the BEST. Try ebay. It seems DMM has secured the patent on Aluminum Offsets and begun to market these great chocks with an anodized finish.

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By Peter Pitocchi
Aug 25, 2012
Pete belays 2nd pitch Little corner
DMM makes HB aluminum offsets

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By Gunkiemike
Aug 25, 2012
And both DMM and Metolius nuts have the longitudinal groove that was in large part responsible for the Saddlewedge's superior performance. The SW's were "short" compared to modern nuts; I think that's significant too.

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By rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 25, 2012
The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...
I don't think they were short so much as they were wide, and so looked proportionally short. Although beautifully made, their width made them less than optimal for Gunks-type placements, which often require maneuvering a nut into a wide spot and then sliding it sideways to keyhole in a horizontal crack. (Although not at all complicated, this type of placement is declining in favor of a generally less secure and less strong cam placement.) The SW's were too often too wide to fit through the available enlargement.

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By The Ex-Engineer
From UK
Dec 15, 2012
Have recently acquired an unused set of Campbell Saddle Wedges #4-#7. Been online trying to find out a bit more about them and came across this thread among others.

They are a lovely bit of kit but I'm not completely sure whether to hang on to them as rather nice collectors items (along with the handful of other historic gear I've got), sling them up for use on easy climbs and scrambles or perhaps look at selling them on.

Tending to go off the idea of actually using them as they are set up for 8/9mm rope and it'd suit me more to get hold of some of the later WC Rocks designed for 5.5mm dyneema cord.

There is probably not that much interest in them over here in England but I'd be curious to know if anyone would want them enough for it to be worth posting them across the Atlantic?

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By Woodchuck ATC
Dec 15, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Yes, I still have a few left somewhere in the old gear bins. For some reason they sent me half a dozen sizes to try out, sort of gear testing the first batch back in the 80's. Sweet nut, with a great fit around nubbins. I never saw them as wired chocks, just self-tied up with a chunk of 6 or 7mm rope. They made both the smooth sided ones, and the favorite with the indentation (saddle) in the middle. I think they were one of the first nuts I had that was annodized too.

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