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Cam wedged with a hex??

Original Post
Nick Zmyewski · · Newark, DE · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 250

What do you guys think? I've seen this a few times, but do you think it'd actually work in a fall?

Eric Klammer · · Eagle, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 2,070

Haha, maybe... Depends which one(s) you clip. If you clipped only the cam there's a chance it might.

SDY · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10

One way to find out....

Tom-onator · · trollfreesociety · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 790

Tick, tick, tick, tick...
"Set it and forget it" was never more appropriate!

K Weber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 15

BOMBER!!

Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 245

I doubt it. But it depends on how you whip onto it; seems like any outward force is probably going to slide the cam free before it's fully weighted. If it's all I had, I'd put a nice long sling on it and hope I found something better real soon. But there's really only one way to find out.

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266

The left side rock looks smooth and hex face towards that side is rounded so I would say don't fall, but who knows. I've seen pictures of old timers who could stack like a mofo but this is less than confidence inspiring.

Let me guess, you whipped on it and it held or zoom out the photo and its 6 feet off the ground.

Finn The Human · · The Land of Ooo · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 106

Seems to me that if the climbing is easy enough to allow you to use both hands to set up that mess (can you think of a way to place those pieces one handed? I can't...), then you should just keep climbing and find a better placement.

If there's literally no better placements in the vicinity, then sure, it's better than nothing. Still, I think you might have better luck if you were to really overcam the C4 and then place it like a passive piece, so you end up with the equivalent of two stacked nuts, instead of a nut and a squishy piece that might slip out if the hex rotates.

Joshinator · · Longmont, Colorado · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 45

Doesn't look great to me. It does make me curious though. Wouldn't mind putting a bomber piece below it and weighting it/bounce testing it.

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

well you could do that or your could buy some big cams or big bros and skip the bullshit. I have stacked Hexes for shits and grins but I dont like the slick metal on my lobes

Loren Trager · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 165

I have to agree with "buy some big cams or big bros and skip the bullshit." My guess is that placement would fail at least 50% of the time. Has anyone ever fallen on a cam wedged with a hex and not pulled it? With any chance of the cam walking or hex shifting even slightly, the stacking falls apart. ONLY nuts and hexes were even intended to be stacked because they are static pro and can potentially be placed one-handed, like the awesome examples below (not mine):

climbinbob · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 0

Turn the hex sideways so the cam will bite into the open end of the hex, and then pray!

Alan Doak · · boulder, co · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 120

YER GONNA DIE!!!!

Bob Dobalina · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 140

Cams rely on friction to work. Metal on metal is almost frictionless. Yer gonna die!

Tanner Schoonmaker · · Sheridan, Wy Laramie during sc · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 0

Take a whipper on it and test it out !!

joshf · · missoula, mt · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 790

it does not help that the rock is wet...but there is totally a pink tricam placement at the back left of that crack.

Dave006 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Maybe if you turned the cam around so the silver lobes were on the hex it would be less likely to slip... but i still wouldn't trust it.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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