Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cam wedged with a hex??
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
By Nick Zmyewski
From Newark, Delaware
Jul 13, 2013
the frozen topout during a winter ascent

What do you guys think? I've seen this a few times, but do you think it'd actually work in a fall?


Cam+hex
Cam+hex


FLAG
By Eric Klammer
From Boulder, CO
Jul 13, 2013
Heading up the best pitches of the route. Perfect rock at a nice relaxed angle!

Haha, maybe... Depends which one(s) you clip. If you clipped only the cam there's a chance it might.


FLAG
By SDY
Jul 13, 2013

One way to find out....


FLAG
By Tom-onator
From This Galaxy
Jul 13, 2013
Tom-onator

Tick, tick, tick, tick...
"Set it and forget it" was never more appropriate!


FLAG
By K Weber
Jul 13, 2013

BOMBER!!


FLAG
By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Jul 13, 2013
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV

I doubt it. But it depends on how you whip onto it; seems like any outward force is probably going to slide the cam free before it's fully weighted. If it's all I had, I'd put a nice long sling on it and hope I found something better real soon. But there's really only one way to find out.


FLAG
By CJC
Jul 13, 2013

it can only help to dump the weight at least.

if I were to try this I'd probably turn the hex sideways so there's less chance of the hex slipping or pivoting out of place, releasing the whole junk show.


FLAG
By Rick Blair
From Denver
Jul 13, 2013
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I think it works quite well, depending on rope thickness and sheath quality, it belays very smooth.  Great to lower with.  You gotta love over engineering.  $3 at a gear swap!

The left side rock looks smooth and hex face towards that side is rounded so I would say don't fall, but who knows. I've seen pictures of old timers who could stack like a mofo but this is less than confidence inspiring.

Let me guess, you whipped on it and it held or zoom out the photo and its 6 feet off the ground.


FLAG
By Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Jul 13, 2013
Mathematical!

Seems to me that if the climbing is easy enough to allow you to use both hands to set up that mess (can you think of a way to place those pieces one handed? I can't...), then you should just keep climbing and find a better placement.

If there's literally no better placements in the vicinity, then sure, it's better than nothing. Still, I think you might have better luck if you were to really overcam the C4 and then place it like a passive piece, so you end up with the equivalent of two stacked nuts, instead of a nut and a squishy piece that might slip out if the hex rotates.


FLAG
By Joshua Steenburgh
From Longmont, Colorado
Jul 13, 2013
Chocolate Corner.

Doesn't look great to me. It does make me curious though. Wouldn't mind putting a bomber piece below it and weighting it/bounce testing it.


FLAG
By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Jul 13, 2013
blah

well you could do that or your could buy some big cams or big bros and skip the bullshit. I have stacked Hexes for shits and grins but I dont like the slick metal on my lobes


FLAG
By Loren Tragen
From Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 20, 2013
Nameless boulder on the edge of the Holy Boulders area in SoIll.

I have to agree with "buy some big cams or big bros and skip the bullshit." My guess is that placement would fail at least 50% of the time. Has anyone ever fallen on a cam wedged with a hex and not pulled it? With any chance of the cam walking or hex shifting even slightly, the stacking falls apart. ONLY nuts and hexes were even intended to be stacked because they are static pro and can potentially be placed one-handed, like the awesome examples below (not mine):

Chuck Grossman one-handed stacked placements
Chuck Grossman one-handed stacked placements


FLAG
By climbinbob
Jul 20, 2013

Turn the hex sideways so the cam will bite into the open end of the hex, and then pray!


FLAG
By doak
From boulder, co
Jul 20, 2013
Drinking with Moses

YER GONNA DIE!!!!


FLAG
By Bob Dobalina
Jul 21, 2013

Cams rely on friction to work. Metal on metal is almost frictionless. Yer gonna die!


FLAG
By Tanner Schoonmaker
From Sheridan, Wy Laramie during sc
Aug 13, 2013

Take a whipper on it and test it out !!


FLAG
By joshf
From missoula, mt
Aug 13, 2013
Me

it does not help that the rock is wet...but there is totally a pink tricam placement at the back left of that crack.


FLAG
By Dave006
Aug 26, 2013

Maybe if you turned the cam around so the silver lobes were on the hex it would be less likely to slip... but i still wouldn't trust it.


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.