Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cam wedged with a hex??
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Jul 13, 2013
the frozen topout during a winter ascent
What do you guys think? I've seen this a few times, but do you think it'd actually work in a fall?


Cam+hex
Cam+hex
Nick Zmyewski
From Newark, Delaware
Joined Jun 2, 2011
132 points
Jul 13, 2013
Heading up the best pitches of the route. Perfect ...
Haha, maybe... Depends which one(s) you clip. If you clipped only the cam there's a chance it might. Eric Klammer
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 10, 2012
1,871 points
Jul 13, 2013
One way to find out.... SDY
Joined Jan 29, 2013
11 points
Jul 13, 2013
Leashless bliss. 3 points of contact
Tick, tick, tick, tick...
"Set it and forget it" was never more appropriate!
Tom-onator
From trollfreesociety
Joined Feb 15, 2010
800 points
Jul 13, 2013
BOMBER!! K Weber
Joined Jun 17, 2011
15 points
Jul 13, 2013
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
I doubt it. But it depends on how you whip onto it; seems like any outward force is probably going to slide the cam free before it's fully weighted. If it's all I had, I'd put a nice long sling on it and hope I found something better real soon. But there's really only one way to find out. Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
357 points
Jul 13, 2013
Mashers Tower
it can only help to dump the weight at least.

if I were to try this I'd probably turn the hex sideways so there's less chance of the hex slipping or pivoting out of place, releasing the whole junk show.
Cornelius Jefferson
Joined Apr 5, 2006
163 points
Jul 13, 2013
This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I thi...
The left side rock looks smooth and hex face towards that side is rounded so I would say don't fall, but who knows. I've seen pictures of old timers who could stack like a mofo but this is less than confidence inspiring.

Let me guess, you whipped on it and it held or zoom out the photo and its 6 feet off the ground.
Rick Blair
From Denver
Joined Oct 16, 2007
250 points
Jul 13, 2013
Mathematical!
Seems to me that if the climbing is easy enough to allow you to use both hands to set up that mess (can you think of a way to place those pieces one handed? I can't...), then you should just keep climbing and find a better placement.

If there's literally no better placements in the vicinity, then sure, it's better than nothing. Still, I think you might have better luck if you were to really overcam the C4 and then place it like a passive piece, so you end up with the equivalent of two stacked nuts, instead of a nut and a squishy piece that might slip out if the hex rotates.
Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Joined Jul 11, 2008
123 points
Jul 13, 2013
Chocolate Corner.
Doesn't look great to me. It does make me curious though. Wouldn't mind putting a bomber piece below it and weighting it/bounce testing it. Joshinator
From Longmont, Colorado
Joined Aug 1, 2011
65 points
Jul 13, 2013
blah
well you could do that or your could buy some big cams or big bros and skip the bullshit. I have stacked Hexes for shits and grins but I dont like the slick metal on my lobes Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Joined Dec 19, 2011
84 points
Jul 20, 2013
Nameless boulder on the edge of the Holy Boulders ...
I have to agree with "buy some big cams or big bros and skip the bullshit." My guess is that placement would fail at least 50% of the time. Has anyone ever fallen on a cam wedged with a hex and not pulled it? With any chance of the cam walking or hex shifting even slightly, the stacking falls apart. ONLY nuts and hexes were even intended to be stacked because they are static pro and can potentially be placed one-handed, like the awesome examples below (not mine):
Chuck Grossman one-handed stacked placements
Chuck Grossman one-handed stacked placements
Lorenzo Tragen
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Jun 23, 2011
174 points
Jul 20, 2013
Turn the hex sideways so the cam will bite into the open end of the hex, and then pray! climbinbob
Joined Nov 15, 2007
24 points
Jul 20, 2013
Drinking with Moses
YER GONNA DIE!!!! doak
From boulder, co
Joined Oct 1, 2007
98 points
Jul 21, 2013
Cams rely on friction to work. Metal on metal is almost frictionless. Yer gonna die! Bob Dobalina
Joined Jun 2, 2009
178 points
Aug 13, 2013
Take a whipper on it and test it out !! Tanner Schoonmaker
From Sheridan, Wy Laramie during sc
Joined Aug 13, 2013
0 points
Aug 13, 2013
Me
it does not help that the rock is wet...but there is totally a pink tricam placement at the back left of that crack. joshf
From missoula, mt
Joined Oct 25, 2007
982 points
Aug 26, 2013
Maybe if you turned the cam around so the silver lobes were on the hex it would be less likely to slip... but i still wouldn't trust it. Dave006
Joined Feb 16, 2013
0 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.  
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!