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Cam thumb loop repair and sling replacement questions.
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By ShibbyShane
From Estes Park, CO
Apr 9, 2010
Dappled Mare

I recent bought a yellow alien that's had some prior use; it's fine mechanically but the rubber/plastic that covers the thumb loop has seen better days, and the sling is pretty tattered. Here's a picture of it:


Yellow Alien thumb loop.
Yellow Alien thumb loop.



I can push the plastic back together and it covers the cable fine, so I was wondering if I could just tape it up with electric tape or duct tape or some such thing. Is that good enough or not safe? Is there a better way to do it that isn't expensive/a pain in the ass?

As for the sling, I've seen other people who have replaced their sling with webbing; that's fine but I was wondering if I could use some 8mm perlon chord or something similar. Just trying to work with what I already have and not have to send it out for a new sling. I may do that eventually, but right now I'm trying to save cash.

Thanks in advance for any advice. I can also take some more photos if necessary. Cheers!


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By Max Lurie
From Conway, NH
Apr 9, 2010
Me happily toping out pitch two on the back side of Seneca rocks, WV.

There is actually more to cam sling design then meets the eye. While a tied piece of nylon webbing would do, I would personal stay away from any of the newer materials. Because they are generally thinner and do not tie as well. Here is a link to a Black Diamond QC Lab that might be helpful in deciding what to do.

QC Lab - Re-sling Camalots


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By ShibbyShane
From Estes Park, CO
Apr 9, 2010
Dappled Mare

Thanks for the link Max, pretty informative. I wasn't thinking about using dyneema/spectra to resling it, more along the lines of regular nylon tubular webbing.


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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Apr 10, 2010
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

tie a water knot and then back up the tails by sewing them heavily with regular thread, that way it can't come untied and kill you.


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By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Apr 10, 2010
Russ

Keenan Waeschle wrote:
tie a water knot and then back up the tails by sewing them heavily with regular thread, that way it can't come untied and kill you.


What is going to kill you is the webbing/cable interface. Es no bueno mang.

Any fix on that cam will be hokey, but for sure you must protect the webbing from the raw cable, somehow.


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By ShibbyShane
From Estes Park, CO
Apr 10, 2010
Dappled Mare

Russ Walling wrote:
What is going to kill you is the webbing/cable interface. Es no bueno mang. Any fix on that cam will be hokey, but for sure you must protect the webbing from the raw cable, somehow.



Yeah seriously. Just wanted to check if people had any tips. It's definitely gonna end up jerry-rigged.


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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Apr 10, 2010
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

wrap it in electricians tape or something, or just use it for aid. that's probably the safest short of throwing it away.


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By slobmonster
Apr 10, 2010

The (urethane, I think?) tubing is obviously toast. Bare cable + spectra webbing = quick failure.

If you really want this cam to be usable, reliable, and not prone to catastrophic failure, try and find an old thumbloop from a 1st generation Camalot Junior. And then tie a new sling around this...


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By Timmamok
From Durango, CO
Apr 10, 2010
crack at undisclosed location - my little proj

Just use a carabiner or quick draw, like an old school camalot


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By ShibbyShane
From Estes Park, CO
Apr 10, 2010
Dappled Mare

Timmamok wrote:
Just use a carabiner or quick draw, like an old school camalot


I like it! Why didn't I think of that...

Thanks man.


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By Jordan Ramey
From Calgary, Alberta
Apr 10, 2010
What was left of the rack when I topped out on the last pitch of Snake Dike on Half Dome.

Timmamok wrote:
Just use a carabiner or quick draw, like an old school camalot


that was my first thought. Nuts have bare cables.


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By JoshuaJones
From Albuquerque
Nov 18, 2012
Rapping from the top.

I have a gold alien with similar situation I just paid $70 for from a guy on MP. The cut is not all the way down to cable though. Is there anyone out there that can replace the plastic/urethane around the thumbloop without undoing swage?


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Nov 18, 2012
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

if you want to fix the cable tube...you could try getting some tubing at home depot and replace it....slice it in half, place on cable, then heat the two ends back together cover in tape.


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By JoshuaJones
From Albuquerque
Nov 18, 2012
Rapping from the top.

I will give that a shot. Thanks.


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By John D
Nov 18, 2012

you also might try some plasti-dip you could just cut off the old cover and dip it in the plasti-dip bada-bing I think it'd be more durable and better than using heat shrink tubing.


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By JoshuaJones
From Albuquerque
Nov 18, 2012
Rapping from the top.

Plasti dip? I might just give it a shot. I just put a lighter to the small cut at the base of the thumbloop and melted it closed. Maybe I can just plast dip the old plastic to seal it up. Then tape it up.?


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By JoshuaJones
From Albuquerque
Nov 18, 2012
Rapping from the top.

I appreciate all the help. I guess I can hit Home Depot up tomorrow and look for tubing and plasti dip. I don't imagine it's possible to put the tubing on like the original. Too bad. Next time I will ask for pics though I guess it may have happened while being shipped as the seller said, "I never saw a cut". Thanks to all and still open to any new ideas.


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By Aric Datesman
Nov 18, 2012

If you don't care for a biner, you could always put a short sling with a rated Petzl Mallion on there. IME plastidip is softer than the nylon tubing used on Aliens. That said, the BD folded-over sling thing is because their wires are thinner than usual and the extra layer prevents the wire from cutting the sling. Also of note is there are a couple off-brands I recall seeing that have what looks to be loops simply with plastidip between the wire and sling. ANDE brand, possibly out of Italy? Got a couple in the gear box and can dig them out if needed.

But as for replacing the tube without undoing the swage? Not likely. Lots of bending in the loop when loaded, which means any cut&glue solution is likely out, and tape brings up the whole what's-in-the-adhesive-and-it's-effect-on-the-sling question. Hate to say it, but you should retire it. IME the tube splits like that when heavily loaded (6 or 7 kN) and is probably due for retirement. Do the lobes have flat spots?


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By Gunkiemike
Nov 19, 2012

JoshuaJones wrote:
Next time I will ask for pics though I guess it may have happened while being shipped as the seller said, "I never saw a cut".


He said that?

That sort of damage comes from loading the piece. It didn't happen in shipping. I'd ask for at least half your money back.


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By wivanoff
Nov 19, 2012
High Exposure

Gunkiemike wrote:
He said that? That sort of damage comes from loading the piece. It didn't happen in shipping. I'd ask for at least half your money back.


Exactly. Any shipping damage would be on the outside of the loop, not on the inside. That cam was definitely loaded.


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By Matt Roberts
From Columbus, OH
Nov 19, 2012
Hittin' Miguel's with the new Chimps in tow

How about a quicklink on there? That way, you don't get confused when re-racking & taking the biner off. Just pop a QL on, screw it shut & go for it?

DISCLAIMER: Nothing in this posting should be construed as substantive advice. My liability is limited to a refund of your payment to me for said advice.


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By JoshuaJones
From Albuquerque
Nov 19, 2012
Rapping from the top.

The lobes have seen some use. They are a bit flat around area that touches rock when cammed. My guess is somebody whipped on it pretty hard;) Does anyone think Fixe will be making any larger sizes in the future?


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By JoshuaJones
From Albuquerque
Nov 19, 2012
Rapping from the top.

This is first time I've been burned on MP. Live and learn! Thanks Aric and everyone else.A bit off topic but I have an alien dated 12/05 without the dimple of death. Who should I go to for a pull test?


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