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Cam canked on classic route!
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By Matt J
From Bozeman, Montana
May 15, 2011
I decided today was the day to onsight a classic route in my area, and onsight it I did!

However, I left a kanked #2 at the 2nd crux, Tried a half hour to get it out with no luck.

What to do next?

Is it my responsibility to get it out? Any tricks of the trade I dont know about? Tried working all the lobes with a nut tool but made no progress, its stuck!!!!

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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
May 16, 2011
if you fixed it and left it...its booty. if one of the lobes had any movement in it, someone will get it.

also, i second the question- what the hell does canked mean?

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By tooTALLtim
From Boulder, CO
May 16, 2011
From the top of Pingora. You can see the descent from Wolf's Head in the background.
Hehehh, which route?

But if you want to get it out yourself, go up there and fiddle with it for longer. Did you spend 15 minutes or 60 minutes working on it?

Also, I had to resort to a hammer and chisel to knock one cam out. I just lightly tapped the lobes, and worked it to a wider section of the crack.

I also hear that turning a cam around and working it towards yourself sometimes works in the Creek.

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By Matt J
From Bozeman, Montana
May 16, 2011
By canked I mean overcammed, sorry!

A number one would have been ideal, but the two worked and would have been fine if it hadnt walked, which is something else i need to work on...

Anyways, the cams DID move slightly, but the trigger was frozen. We spent about 15 mins on it, and maybe spent longer but the sun was going down.

The route was Diesel Driver in Gallatin Canyon, right after you pull the roof, quite conveinient location if you ask me. I would still like to get my new cam back though!

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By kBobby
From Spokane, WA
May 16, 2011
A #2 in a #1 placement with the cams moving should be little trouble to get "uncanked". Ignore the trigger. Work on the cam-lobes. Use a nut-tool or two (or three). It might take time, but you can get it to "unwalk" back out by moving one or two lobes at a time while (VERY) slightly moving the stem from side to side.

Removing stuck cams requires a lot of finesse. It can be a Zen-like experience. Stay relaxed, and don't get frustrated, because you will end up putting the cam in a worse position if you do.

Go back up and get it! It will be good for you. Go as soon as possible. Tomorrow afternoon might already be too late.

If possible, rappel to the piece (a Gri-Gri is good for this) and tie yourself off. If other climbers come to climb this route, let them.

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By Brian in SLC
May 16, 2011
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Matt J wrote:
The route was Diesel Driver in Gallatin Canyon, right after you pull the roof, quite conveinient location if you ask me.


Nice onsight! Guidebook description is great for this route (older Dockin's guide).

Long screwdriver, old long dong, hammer, two nut tools...

Overcammed stuck camalots, which don't seem to get stuck as easily as overcammed friends, are tough to remove.

Edit to add: "canked"! I like it.

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By Jeff J
From Bozeman
May 16, 2011
Northern Lights has BD cams on 25% off until the 22nd...

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