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Fortress Wall
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Calypso I 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bob Molzon and Dick Shori 1977
Page Views: 1,077
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 27, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Me on the very exposed start of the climb

Description 

There are two options for the start... The normal way is to scramble up to the crack from the right using an easy ramp to the right of the tree... I enjoyed a direct start a few feet to the left of the tree... The direct start was a little harder than 5.7 and had PG13 protection but i thought it was really fun... Once you get to the crack you just jam and layback your way to the top passing an interesting move to the left... Pull through the steep bulge at the top and stand on the ledge...

To belay your second walk to the back of the ledge and build an anchor in a corner, or find another option if you can... When you are done you can rap off of the anchors of Blue Runner just to the left as long as no one is on it (but it is a popular route so you might have to search for another option)... This last paragraph is why this route isn't as popular as some others... All the other routes in the area have bolt anchors...


Location 

Just right of Blue runner stand by a large tree and next to the rock and look up... You will see a nice flake/crack leading to a steep finish.... Thats your route...


Protection 

Regular rack will get you to the ledge comfortably... one of the big downers of this route is the lack of bolted anchor and no convenient option... The best belay i could find was in a corner at the back of the ledge to the left in a corner...



Photos of Calypso I Slideshow Add Photo
this is the scramble start
BETA PHOTO: this is the scramble start
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By Chuck Parks
From: Atlanta, GA
May 18, 2011

This route now has bolts and rings at the top. When you top out the bulge, they'll be on your left.

By Drake Pregnall
From: Lake Placid, NY
Mar 19, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c PG13

I onsighted this climb, so perhaps I missed some otherwise obvious placements, but I took the scramble up from the right start variation, and found my first piece being a .4 inch cam that I was placing blindly as I leaned left out over a 20 foot drop with my right hand crimping a tiny hold. The climb was super quality though. Really fun flake and features higher up.