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Pavilion Block Bouldering
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L to R R to L Alpha
An Appropriate Name 
Bison Corposantics  
Bison Lightning 
Calm like a Bomb 
Campus Problem 
Edible Berries 
Formidable Forecast 
Gorilla Action 
Green Machine, The 
Harappan Civilization 
Hour of Power, The 
Local On the Eights 
Mono Problem 
Over My Head 
Overhang, The 
Poison Berry 
Sexytime Traverse 
Syzygy 
Thrutch and Wiese 
Traverse of the Gods, The 
White Bruce Lee 

Calm like a Bomb 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: Knower, 1999
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,357
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Nov 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Calm Like a Bomb

Description 

Walk down the steps to the east of the Redbird Statue and below the main pavilion area. The trail will take you to a huge detached block. Some good bouldering can be found on the downhill side of the block.

A blank roof crosses the right side of the wall. "Calm" climbs up a very overhanging prow that juts out from the right side of the wall, just right of the roof. Heel hooks and slaps lead to easier moves. The climb was topped-out on the first ascent, but this is not necessary as the top is tall, easy, and uninspiring.

"Calm" looks and climbs a lot like "The Buddha" at the Gunks.

Protection 

pads


Photos of Calm like a Bomb Slideshow Add Photo
Calm Like a Bomb
Calm Like a Bomb
This is Calm Like a Bomb. There are a couple variations to this route. You can either stay committed to the face, or you can cut left after the big flake and then move up.
BETA PHOTO: This is Calm Like a Bomb. There are a couple varia...
Stew, calm like a bomb.
Stew, calm like a bomb.
Calm Like a Bomb
Calm Like a Bomb
Mike climbing 'Calm Like a Bomb' in freezing weather.
Mike climbing 'Calm Like a Bomb' in freezing weath...
Calm Like a Bomb
Calm Like a Bomb
i've always climbed this spot following the green line here. i skip the slap to make it harder in the ceilings edge there are two pockets, and when it goes vertical there is the nob and the little ledge then basically follow straight up...maybe i should add a new route on here...
BETA PHOTO: i've always climbed this spot following the green ...

Comments on Calm like a Bomb Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 13, 2012
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Dec 9, 2006
rating: V4 6B

I think the right hand variation is more like V3.
By Leveille
From: Appleton, WI
Dec 10, 2006
rating: V3-4 6A+

It was definatly pretty cold yesterday. And I'd have to agree that the right hand side is more V3. Also, did you put up that photo of my bloody hand, or could you shoot me an e-mail with it. It'd be pretty fun to show it to some people at school.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Dec 11, 2006

I have been informed that this problem goes easier with a left leg-stuff/calf-hook. I found this problem incredibly desperate, but I did not use the leg stuff. Perhaps the beta on this has "evolved." At any rate, Calm climbs the red line in the photo. To my knowledge, the blue line has not been climbed.
By Peter Dodge
From: Duluth, MN
Dec 11, 2006

Mike- I'm I'll put the picture up right now. I'll put it up under Harappan Civilization though.
Jay- When I do this route I'm to short to be able to use the foot- jam. But, I would agree that with it, it makes it easier. On the other note, the blue line has been done before. Some people who I know have done it (and seen it) are Adam Glass and Mike Taylor. I have just started working this variation and it is much harder then the right.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Dec 11, 2006

Does anyone know the name/grade of the blue line?
By Leveille
From: Appleton, WI
Dec 11, 2006
rating: V3-4 6A+

Thx for the picture Pete,

I also agree that the huge foot move is somewhat cheap and makes that part of the route quite a bit easier. I don't know about the blue line but I have no doubt that Adam would have sent that.
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Dec 26, 2006
rating: V4 6B

Upon further review this is definitely V4...
By Seth Carlson
From: Wausau, Wisconsin
May 23, 2008
rating: V3 6A

A little dyno skips the crimps. A very fun V3
By Witt
Aug 17, 2008
rating: V4+ 6B+

the blue line is definitely the harder of the two lines. v4 if the red is v3. there is a high right hand pinch that allows a big reach around the bulge. the blue line is a more sustained problem and lots of fun, just remember an extra pad.
As of 11/21/09 a key hold has been broken off of the blue line's route. Updated rating is V4+.
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Apr 13, 2011

Blue Line is definitely the best of the two variations. Worked on it yesterday with John and figured out all the moves, just have to come back when I am fresh to send. Stiff V4 that way.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 16, 2011
rating: V5 6C

I've always climbed the blue line. Both lines can utilize the foot jam. And it's definitely not a cheap move and doesn't help everyone. It's one of the more unique moves I've pulled while climbing.
By Tito Krull
Oct 13, 2012

this route is sweet, it can be bumped up to at least a V6 if you challenge yourself by sit starting under the ceiling on the right side, and by eliminating the huge slab to hook onto, it leaves you with two small but decent pockets to work with. making it much more difficult...(: