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Callitwhatyouplease T 
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Great Ripoff, The T,TR 
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Heaven's Gate T 
Hook Direct, The T,TR 
Hook Variation, The S 
Hook, The T 
Knobs to Gumbyland S 
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Mind Blow T 
Movie Variation T 
Playing Hooky Var. T 
Recess Variation T 
Rumba, The T 
Schoolroom T 
Schoolroom Chimney T 
Schoolroom Direct Variation T 
Schoolroom Roof T 
Schoolroom West T 
Scourge, The T,TR 
Stone the Crows S 
Talus Food S,TR 

Callitwhatyouplease 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George Lowe, Dick Ream 1966
Page Views: 4,450
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Apr 23, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (143)
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The initial flakey section of callitwhatyouplease

The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Callitwhatyouplease is the next major crack system right of the obvious Bushwhack Crack. The crack doesn't touch the ground, so it is necessary to climb for 30 feet or so through hollow flakes. Pro can be placed, however, making the opening safe.

Climb through the flakes, then traverse right to the main crack system. Follow this all the way until a set of chains. On the way, a couple of pitons are encountered, and then the crack widens to make the 5.8 crux. Another touchy move up top brings one to the top.

Rap with one rope (60m) down the gully to the right. It might also reach straight down the face, but I am not sure.


Protection 

Standard Rack. I placed sizes from small up to a 3.5 camalot. The wide section narrows near the back which makes it not require too much big gear.


Photos of Callitwhatyouplease Slideshow Add Photo
Brian on Callitwhat you please, at the top of the face, before traversing to the crack.
Brian on Callitwhat you please, at the top of the ...
Here I am at the start of the crack.
BETA PHOTO: Here I am at the start of the crack.
Schoolroom from the parking lot
BETA PHOTO: Schoolroom from the parking lot

Comments on Callitwhatyouplease Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 13, 2014
By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: New York, NY
Apr 23, 2004

The wide part of this climb can be seen in the beta photo. It is almost exactly in the center of the pic, about 20 feet right of the trees on Bushwhack Crack.
By Nathan Fisher
Jun 13, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This IMO is the best of the Schoolroom area moderate cracks. One 70m will get you straight down the face.
By vincent pierce
Sep 27, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A fun offwidth? As this route demonstrates... it IS possible! The last 5.8 move was a big surprise and felt pretty hard. A 60m rope, with care, will get you into the trees on the right side of the base of the climb.
By Nathan Fisher
Sep 5, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Took my wife on this today for her first "true crack" route. Needless to say, this may not have been the best choice, as she took 2 hours, cursed repeatedly, and moved one inch at a time. However, when she got to the top with her only falls doing the face sequence through the flakes, she was very proud of herself....beat up, but proud of herself. She may not do another wide crack for a bit, but she did this one.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Sep 8, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This line was incredible. This is one of the best off-width sections that I have ever done. My favorite was the arm bars and knee jam section. Perhaps because I have never felt such a solid knee jam, where I could just lean back and go no hands. I started off caving, where this is quite common, so I ate it up. I know many who hate OW's. The last few moves are a bit dicey, but it isn't too difficult to sit on the horn.
By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006

A pretty fun 5.8!
By shawn
Sep 13, 2006

I will callitapieceofcrap. The bottom section if fun. The OW section at the top sucks. This is not a climb I would do again. Not hard just not fun climbing.
By oliver
Aug 14, 2007

this was a good route however I felt compared to other 5.8's around Little that this route was more like a 5.7. It protects super well and gives you a little bit of everything
By Skyler Penrod
Jul 20, 2008

I found that the rock quality in the back of the OW was not that great, it seemed to crumble around my cams. However, this could also be that it is just kind of dirty as well. I took 2 #4 Friends and wished I had taken at least 3. Fun route but be careful what way you climb the OW section.
By Woodson
From: Park City, Ut.
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Wow! Indeed a fun offwidth! For some reason the first 5.6 move down low was touchier than the actual chickenhead crux for me. Go figure...The pro is excellent and there are still 2 pins at the bottom of the crack.
By Carl Rene Pelletier
From: Jackson, Wyoming
Oct 10, 2009

Found a pair of climbing shoes at the base of Callitwhatyouplease today....Saturday,October 10th....around 3:30 pm or so. Feel free to email me if you are missing them.....

carl.r.pelletier@gmail.com
By Barry52
Dec 9, 2009

Watch out for the wasps in the flakes. I just about got swarmed here. The "chickenhead-squat" at the top, is a classic.
By Matt Brodhead
From: Logan, UT
Jun 9, 2011

Great climb. The start had some really fun moves, and the wide section was pretty decent. Hint: knee jams.
By Christian West
Oct 20, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I really enjoyed this climb, my friend lead it today. I'd like to go back and lead it next time. Anyways I thought that move with the chicken head was awesome where you basically brought your foot all the way up to your hand on the chicken head. I thought it was a really fun crack climb, lots of bomber foot jams. The only part I felt was dicey was the last move, it was pretty awkward and the foot jam was a little precarious.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Apr 22, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Sweet route! I can understand the 2.7 stars for the fact that the route can't be rapped with a 60 (you have to rap into the 4th class gully at the start) and we experienced a micro epic when the rope got stuck around a chicken.

The offwidth is one of the easiest in the canyon. Feels less technical than crescent crack ... takes a bomber #3 BD that can also be walked. The bottom protects well with nuts.
By timmay
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 28, 2012

The anchors on this route need to be replaced. One of the bolts can be wiggled and slightly pulled out of its hole. The other bolt is a spinner and also somewhat shady. I backed it up for the rappel with a sling around the chicken head near the anchor.
By Aaron Livingston
From: Moab, UT
Apr 8, 2013

Where are the anchors???? My guide book says there is supposed to be an anchor on a huge tree, the only tree is across the gully. The only bolt anchors I saw were at the top of "chicken little" which caused a huge amount of rope drag.
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 22, 2013

Not that it wasn't just gaping enough to require some sweat and wide techniques from me, but I think this could be considered offwidth lite.

You'll probably want to walk a #4 through that part, but I was glad I judiciously placed smaller pieces in the back of that crack when possible and preserved the 4 (as well as my #2) for the end.

Overall more difficult than Bushwhack (even in the non-wide sections). Fun to ride the chickenhead before topping out. But I wonder... how many partners has that chickenhead had?
By Ryan Arnold
May 13, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Harder than Crack in the Woods. I brought a number of small cams, a #1, #2, #3, #3.5 and #4, and nuts. Wished for a few more large cams for the OW. It's a full 35m so rack big!
By Jake Billitteri
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 27, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

As a beginning trad leader, I felt a little uneasy on the flaky section at the bottom of this climb. However, I had a blast once I reached the offwidth and was able to cruise the rest of the climb on knee jams and armbars. In my opinion this is the best climb that I have done in Schoolroom thus far.
By Grant Burton
From: Holladay, UT
Aug 13, 2014

One of my favorite 5.8's up little. It was extra exciting finishing the climb seconds before a torrential hail storm. Great start and the offwidth is very secure. I used cams from .3-3 in the off width. Much more fun than bushwack in my opinion. This would be a good first OW climb if you havent led OW before. Don't pass this one up if your at the schoolroom!