Callitwhatyouplease 

The wide part of this climb can be seen in the beta photo. It is almost exactly in the center of the pic, about 20 feet right of the trees on Bushwhack Crack.

This IMO is the best of the Schoolroom area moderate cracks. One 70m will get you straight down the face.

A fun offwidth? As this route demonstrates... it IS possible! The last 5.8 move was a big surprise and felt pretty hard. A 60m rope, with care, will get you into the trees on the right side of the base of the climb.

Took my wife on this today for her first "true crack" route. Needless to say, this may not have been the best choice, as she took 2 hours, cursed repeatedly, and moved one inch at a time. However, when she got to the top with her only falls doing the face sequence through the flakes, she was very proud of herself....beat up, but proud of herself. She may not do another wide crack for a bit, but she did this one.

This line was incredible. This is one of the best off-width sections that I have ever done. My favorite was the arm bars and knee jam section. Perhaps because I have never felt such a solid knee jam, where I could just lean back and go no hands. I started off caving, where this is quite common, so I ate it up. I know many who hate OW's. The last few moves are a bit dicey, but it isn't too difficult to sit on the horn.

A pretty fun 5.8!

I will callitapieceofcrap. The bottom section if fun. The OW section at the top sucks. This is not a climb I would do again. Not hard just not fun climbing.

this was a good route however I felt compared to other 5.8's around Little that this route was more like a 5.7. It protects super well and gives you a little bit of everything

I found that the rock quality in the back of the OW was not that great, it seemed to crumble around my cams. However, this could also be that it is just kind of dirty as well. I took 2 #4 Friends and wished I had taken at least 3. Fun route but be careful what way you climb the OW section.

Wow! Indeed a fun offwidth! For some reason the first 5.6 move down low was touchier than the actual chickenhead crux for me. Go figure...The pro is excellent and there are still 2 pins at the bottom of the crack.

Found a pair of climbing shoes at the base of Callitwhatyouplease today....Saturday,October 10th....around 3:30 pm or so. Feel free to email me if you are missing them.....

carl.r.pelletier@gmail.com

Watch out for the wasps in the flakes. I just about got swarmed here. The "chickenhead-squat" at the top, is a classic.

Great climb. The start had some really fun moves, and the wide section was pretty decent. Hint: knee jams.

I really enjoyed this climb, my friend lead it today. I'd like to go back and lead it next time. Anyways I thought that move with the chicken head was awesome where you basically brought your foot all the way up to your hand on the chicken head. I thought it was a really fun crack climb, lots of bomber foot jams. The only part I felt was dicey was the last move, it was pretty awkward and the foot jam was a little precarious.

Sweet route! I can understand the 2.7 stars for the fact that the route can't be rapped with a 60 (you have to rap into the 4th class gully at the start) and we experienced a micro epic when the rope got stuck around a chicken.

The offwidth is one of the easiest in the canyon. Feels less technical than crescent crack ... takes a bomber #3 BD that can also be walked. The bottom protects well with nuts.

The anchors on this route need to be replaced. One of the bolts can be wiggled and slightly pulled out of its hole. The other bolt is a spinner and also somewhat shady. I backed it up for the rappel with a sling around the chicken head near the anchor.

Where are the anchors???? My guide book says there is supposed to be an anchor on a huge tree, the only tree is across the gully. The only bolt anchors I saw were at the top of "chicken little" which caused a huge amount of rope drag.