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 ADVANCED
Many Pines Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Algae T 
Anemia T,TR 
Anemic Ladder T,TR 
Asleep in a Fuk-nes Dream TR 
Black Rib T 
Broken Ladder TR 
Callipigeanous Crack T,TR 
Callipigeanous Direct T 
Double Clutch (AKA Chickens Don't Fly) T 
Flatus T 
Jamboree T,TR 
Kamikaze T,TR 
Man and Superman T,TR 
Michael's Project T,TR 
No Trump T 
Ostentation T,TR 
Ottobahn T,TR 
Peter's Project T,TR 
Peter's Project Right Side T,TR 
Sewing Machine T,TR 
Superman T,TR 
V8 T,TR 

Callipigeanous Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: First Lead: Jim Erickson
Page Views: 1,606
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 30, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Keller sending Callipigeanous Crack onsight.

Description 

Callipigeanous is the appealing looking crack around the corner from Peter's Project. Unfortunately, the finger crack that looks like it swallows both protection and fingers ends at a ledge halfway up. From this ledge, make an exposed and dramatic step right onto the corner. Follow this corner (bad pro but 5.4ish climbing) to the top. If you can stomach the upper, somewhat runout part, Callipigeanous makes a great lead, perhaps one of the best at Devil's Lake. The lower moves are powerful yet oddly delicate while the upper section holds your interest despite the relatively easy climbing.

Protection 

Small--TCUs and nuts


Photos of Callipigeanous Crack Slideshow Add Photo
In the Crux
In the Crux
Steve Z onsighting Callipigeanous.  April 09.
Steve Z onsighting Callipigeanous. April 09.
0
Entering the runout second half
Entering the runout second half
Ron eyeing it up...
Ron eyeing it up...

Comments on Callipigeanous Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Nov 6, 2002

first lead: Jim Ericksonfirst lead of Callipigeanous Direct: Pete Cleveland
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 25, 2005

callipigeanous direct is also a worthy lead 5.10+ ,use to be some old pins ya could back up with wires. at the ledge(where the huge loose block use to reside before dlfa trundle)go straight up.what the heck does callipigeanous mean????
By Pete Arndt
Mar 26, 2005

I believe the word callipigeanous means "shapely buttocks".Translation: Nice Ass!!!
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Mar 11, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

I think given the runout upper section this deserves a PG13, at least. Even though the climbing difficulties are over a fall from most places on the upper section wouldn't be safe...
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 11, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I've felt that way on a number of DL climbs James, business at the start, then runout 5.5-5.7 climbing at the top.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jul 10, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a must do lead! Great gear, and solid moves to the ledge. The run-out up top is heady, but easy, and you can find decent gear to protect it.